Skin science article
Arbonne Agewell Moisture Restoring Cream With Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer
Arbonne Agewell Moisture Restoring Cream With Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles
Arbonne Agewell Moisture Restoring Cream With Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer
This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Zinc Oxide
Glycerin
Isononyl Isononanoate
Steareth-21
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Squalane
Dimethicone
Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer
Sorbitan Oleate
Steareth-2
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Lavandula Stoechas Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Nasturtium Officinale Extract
Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
Gluconolactone
Xanthan Gum
Calcium Gluconate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Tocopherol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Dehydroxanthan Gum
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Citrate
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Phytic Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Aminomethyl Propanediol
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Zinc Oxide, Glycerin, Isononyl Isononanoate, Steareth-21, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Dimethicone, Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Steareth-2, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Callus Culture Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Lavandula Stoechas Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Gluconolactone, Xanthan Gum, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dehydroxanthan Gum, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Citrate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Phytic Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Aminomethyl Propanediol, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Cetyl Alcohol
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Glyceryl Ascorbate
Retinol
Ceramide NP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Eos
Cholesterol
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Punica Granatum Extract
Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root
Vitis Vinifera
Tocopheryl Acetate
Carnosine
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Butylene Glycol
Ceteareth-25
Polysorbate 20
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Sodium Hydroxide
Trideceth-6
Propyl Gallate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Behenic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
Water, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Cholesterol, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Squalane, Punica Granatum Extract, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Vitis Vinifera, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carnosine, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Ceteareth-25, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trideceth-6, Propyl Gallate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Behenic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!