Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Arencia Red Smoothie Serum 8 Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum

Arencia Red Smoothie Serum 8 Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and S

Arencia Red Smoothie Serum 8 Versus MediCube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Isononyl Isononanoate

Arbutin

1,2-Hexanediol

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Arginine

Carbomer

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Dextrin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Adenosine

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Disodium EDTA

Allantoin

Xanthan Gum

Ferulic Acid

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Beta Vulgaris Root Extract

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Rosa Gallica Flower Extract

Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract

Rosa Canina Fruit Extract

Hexapeptide-2

Soluble Collagen

Hydrolyzed DNA

Biotin

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ascorbic Acid

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Tocopherol

Panthenol

Pyridoxine

Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Arbutin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Arginine, Carbomer, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Dextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Adenosine, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Ferulic Acid, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Rosa Gallica Flower Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Hexapeptide-2, Soluble Collagen, Hydrolyzed DNA, Biotin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Pyridoxine

Isopropyl Myristate

Glycereth-26

Sodium DNA

Polyglycerin-3

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polyisobutene

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Milt Extract

Tromethamine

Caprylyl Glycol

Parfum

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Sorbitan Oleate

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Cyanocobalamin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Ubiquinone

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Salmon Egg Extract

Atelocollagen

Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium DNA, Butylene Glycol, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Milt Extract, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ubiquinone, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Salmon Egg Extract, Atelocollagen

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is made up of glycerin and polyacrylic acid. It helps hydrate your skin as a humectant.

This ingredient forms a hydrogel that delivers moisturizing, water-based ingredients to the skin. It is also used to thicken a product and to give it a smooth texture.

Acrylic acid itself is toxic, but the polymer form (this ingredient) is too large to penetrate skin, making it non-toxic.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

PVM/MA Copolymer is a synthetic and high-molecular weight polymer. It is used to create a flexible film that helps ingredients "stick together" on hair or skin. It also helps reduce static, help emulsions behave, and tweaks the thickness and flow of a product.

You'll most likely find this ingredient in hair styling products because that film is what helps styles last.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Dipropylene Glycol
  4. 04Isopropyl Myristate
  5. 05Glycereth-26
  6. 06Niacinamide
  7. 071,2-Hexanediol
  8. 08Sodium DNA
  9. 09Butylene Glycol
  10. 10Polyglycerin-3
  11. 11Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
  12. 12Polyisobutene
  13. 13Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  14. 14Milt Extract
  15. 15Tromethamine
  16. 16Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
  17. 17Pvm/Ma Copolymer
  18. 18Ethylhexylglycerin
  19. 19Caprylyl Glycol
  20. 20Parfum
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side