Skin science article
Armani Beauty Crema Nera Supreme Reviving Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15
Armani Beauty Crema Nera Supreme Reviving Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15 This moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to reduce redness and support scar healing. This anti-aging day moi
Armani Beauty Crema Nera Supreme Reviving Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15
This moisturizer is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to reduce redness and support scar healing.
This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Cyclohexasiloxane
Rhamnose
Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Dimethicone
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Zea Mays Germ Oil
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Beeswax
Myristyl Myristate
Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide
Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract
Tin Oxide
Stearic Acid
Potassium PCA
Sorbitan Oleate
Sorbitan Tristearate
Nigella Sativa Seed Oil
Trehalose
Isohexadecane
Methylsilanol Mannuronate
Sodium Citrate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Lactate
Myristic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Adenosine
Magnesium Sulfate
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Disodium Phosphate
Capparis Spinosa Fruit Extract
Citric Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Polysilicone-11
Polysorbate 80
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Tocopherol
Sorbic Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
CI 77891
Linalool
Geraniol
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Citronellol
Hexyl Cinnamal
Benzyl Alcohol
Benzyl Salicylate
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Rhamnose, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Zea Mays Germ Oil, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Beeswax, Myristyl Myristate, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf Extract, Tin Oxide, Stearic Acid, Potassium PCA, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Tristearate, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Trehalose, Isohexadecane, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Lactate, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Adenosine, Magnesium Sulfate, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Disodium Phosphate, Capparis Spinosa Fruit Extract, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 80, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Tocopherol, Sorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, CI 77891, Linalool, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Parfum
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Octocrylene
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Polyethylene
Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate
Petrolatum
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Hexyldecyl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Polygonum Aviculare Extract
Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Lactoperoxidase
Glucose Oxidase
Cholesterol
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Glucose
Algae Extract
Artemia Extract
Acetyl Glucosamine
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Persea Gratissima Oil
C12-16 Alcohols
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caffeine
Glycine Soja Sterols
Caprylyl Glycol
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Tocopheryl Acetate
Zinc PCA
Faex Extract
Potato Starch Modified
Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Hydroxide
Potassium Sulfate
Dextran
Hexylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
CI 14700
Mica
Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polyethylene, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose Oxidase, Cholesterol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucose, Algae Extract, Artemia Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Dimethicone, C12-16 Alcohols, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Caffeine, Palmitic Acid, Glycine Soja Sterols, Caprylyl Glycol, Isohexadecane, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Tocopheryl Acetate, Zinc PCA, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 80, Faex Extract, Potato Starch Modified, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sulfate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Dextran, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, Mica, CI 77891
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a synthetic polymer used to stabilize formulas and give products a "gel-cream" feel.
When applied, this ingredient mostly stays on the surface of skin. Safety reviews have found these polymers safe in cosmetics when made to proper quality standards. Testing also shows they’re unlikely to cause irritation or sensitization at normal use levels.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
We don't have a description for Octyldodecyl Myristate yet.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysilicone-11 is a film-forming silicone that creates a non-tacky and matte finish on the skin. It's commonly used to improve texture, absorb excess oil, and help active ingredients spread evenly.
Due to its "rubber-like" structure, it stays on the skin's surface instead of being absorbed. On the skin, it creates a flexible layer that enhances wearability and stability.
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.
As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.
In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.
Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!