Aseir Custom GHK-Cu Sky Blue Cream Versus Dr. Lili Fan Probiotic Recovery Cream

Aseir Custom GHK-Cu Sky Blue Cream Versus Dr. Lili Fan Probiotic Recovery Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Goat Milk

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Emulsifying Wax Nf

Stearic Acid

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Glycerin

Silver Citrate

Citric Acid

Copper Tripeptide-1

Water, Goat Milk, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Emulsifying Wax Nf, Stearic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Silver Citrate, Citric Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1

Cetearyl Alcohol

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Cetearyl Glucoside

Saffloweroyl Cysteine

Oligopeptide-4

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Lactobacillus/Oat Ferment Extract Filtrate

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Pentylene Glycol

Carbomer

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Parfum

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Cetearyl Glucoside, Saffloweroyl Cysteine, Oligopeptide-4, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Lactobacillus/Oat Ferment Extract Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice is the filtered, stabilized liquid pressed from the inner gel of the aloe vera leaf.

In cosmetics, it shows up as either soothing active or a water-replacement base. It is roughly 98-99% water and the last 1-2% is an interesting mix of polysaccharides, amino acids, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes.

The polysaccharides do most of the work: they bind water at the skin surface for a light, non-greasy hydration boost. And one of the polysaccharides, glycomannan, is linked to fibroblast stimulation + collagen synthesis. This is also why aloe has such a long track record in wound and burn healing.

This ingredient is also calming with anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity, making it a great pick for sensitive, irritated, or post-sun skin.

Realistic expectations matter though; the solid evidence is mostly limited to hydration, soothing, and wound support. Deeper claims about anti-aging or sun protection are not well backed, and science reviews note it does not prevent radiation-induced skin injury.

Because it plays well with almost everything, it's commonly used as a base alongside other actives like niacinamide or vitamin C.

Typical usage concentrations range from 0.5% (where hydration benefits already show up) all the way to 90%+ (where it replaces water as the main base).

The safety for this ingredient is well-establish as well. Overall, this is a great supporting ingredient for those who want a boost in hydration.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil comes from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is a skin conditioning agent that helps soften skin and keep it hydrated.

This seed oil has an unusual fatty acid profile: it is one of the highest linoleic acid plant oils out there (~55-77%). It also has low amounts of oleic acid, and this high-linoleic/low-oleic ratio gets people excited.

Linoleic acid helps maintain skin barrier integrity and is a building block for the ceramides in your stratum corneum. Notably, people with acne tend to have lower linoleic acid in their skin lipids as well (and this gets worse as acne gets more severe).

Overall, it's a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil that has a long safety track record. Lab testing has found it to be non-irritating for skin or eyes.

The Malassezia yeast can metabolize the fatty acids in this oil to grow; therefore this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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