Skin science article
Augustinus Bader The Cleansing Balm Versus Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm
Augustinus Bader The Cleansing Balm Versus Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Helianthus Annu
Augustinus Bader The Cleansing Balm Versus Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm
This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Persea Gratissima Oil
Squalane
C10-18 Triglycerides
Phytosterols
Bisabolol
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Glyceryl Stearate
Sorbitan Oleate
Tocopherol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Glycerin
Water
Lecithin
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Xanthan Gum
Butylene Glycol
Arginine
Phenylalanine
Glycine
Lysine
Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Hydroxide
Oligopeptide-4
Oligopeptide-177
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Persea Gratissima Oil, Squalane, C10-18 Triglycerides, Phytosterols, Bisabolol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycerin, Water, Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Arginine, Phenylalanine, Glycine, Lysine, Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Hydroxide, Oligopeptide-4, Oligopeptide-177
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
Synthetic Wax
PEG-10 Isostearate
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Oryza Sativa Seed Water
Propanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Avena Sativa Meal Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Synthetic Wax, PEG-10 Isostearate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Butylene Glycol, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!