Skin science article
Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Allies of Skin Promise Keeper Blemish Sleeping Facial
Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Allies of Skin Promise Keeper Blemish Sleeping Facial This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This acne night moisturiz
Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Allies of Skin Promise Keeper Blemish Sleeping Facial
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This acne night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Squalane
Glycerin
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Ethyl Oleate
Persea Gratissima Oil
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate
Magnesium Sulfate
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Panthenol
Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate
Zinc PCA
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Tocopherol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Maltodextrin
Citric Acid
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Xanthan Gum
Alanyl Glutamine
Arginine
Oligopeptide-177
Phenylalanine
Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil
Sodium Chloride
Dextran
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Glycerin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Ethyl Oleate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Magnesium Sulfate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Zinc PCA, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Alanyl Glutamine, Arginine, Oligopeptide-177, Phenylalanine, Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil, Sodium Chloride, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Niacinamide
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Octadecenedioic Acid
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
Mel
Silver
Tapioca Starch
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Dicaprylyl Ether
Propanediol
Caffeine
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Pyruvic Acid
Mandelic Acid
Lactic Acid
Phospholipids
Sphingolipids
Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Rosmarinyl Glucoside
Caffeyl Glucoside
Gallyl Glucoside
Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
T-Butyl Alcohol
Ethylhexylglycerin
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Benzyl Alcohol
Sodium Gluconate
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Octadecenedioic Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Maltodextrin, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Mel, Silver, Tapioca Starch, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dicaprylyl Ether, Propanediol, Caffeine, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pyruvic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rosmarinyl Glucoside, Caffeyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextran, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.
Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
This synthetic peptide is created from palmitic acid, arginine, histidine, and phenylalanine.
According to the manufacturer, this peptide is great at soothing skin inflammation.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!