Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Allies of Skin Promise Keeper Blemish Sleeping Facial

Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Allies of Skin Promise Keeper Blemish Sleeping Facial This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This acne night moisturiz

Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Allies of Skin Promise Keeper Blemish Sleeping Facial

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This acne night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Squalane

Glycerin

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Ethyl Oleate

Persea Gratissima Oil

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Magnesium Sulfate

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Panthenol

Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate

Zinc PCA

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Tocopherol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Maltodextrin

Citric Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Alanyl Glutamine

Arginine

Oligopeptide-177

Phenylalanine

Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil

Sodium Chloride

Dextran

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Glycerin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Ethyl Oleate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Magnesium Sulfate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Zinc PCA, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Alanyl Glutamine, Arginine, Oligopeptide-177, Phenylalanine, Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil, Sodium Chloride, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Niacinamide

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Octadecenedioic Acid

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Rosa Canina Seed Oil

Mel

Silver

Tapioca Starch

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Dicaprylyl Ether

Propanediol

Caffeine

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Pyruvic Acid

Mandelic Acid

Lactic Acid

Phospholipids

Sphingolipids

Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Rosmarinyl Glucoside

Caffeyl Glucoside

Gallyl Glucoside

Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Benzyl Alcohol

Sodium Gluconate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Octadecenedioic Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Maltodextrin, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Mel, Silver, Tapioca Starch, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Dicaprylyl Ether, Propanediol, Caffeine, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pyruvic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Phospholipids, Sphingolipids, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Mirabilis Jalapa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Rosmarinyl Glucoside, Caffeyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextran, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Gluconate, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.

Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.

This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).

Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.

Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.

This synthetic peptide is created from palmitic acid, arginine, histidine, and phenylalanine.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide is great at soothing skin inflammation.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  4. 04Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  5. 05Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  6. 06Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  7. 07This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  8. 08Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  9. 09Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  10. 10Lactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
  11. 11Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the “glue” that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
  12. 12Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they don’t penetrate as deeply. This means they’re less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
  13. 13Like glycolic acid, it can:
  14. 14Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
  15. 15Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skin’s microbiome.
  16. 16To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
  17. 17Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
  18. 18Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
  19. 19When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the product’s pH.
  20. 20Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Source · skinsort.com
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