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Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream

Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is

Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Squalane

Glycerin

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Ethyl Oleate

Persea Gratissima Oil

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Magnesium Sulfate

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Panthenol

Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate

Zinc PCA

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Tocopherol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Maltodextrin

Citric Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Alanyl Glutamine

Arginine

Oligopeptide-177

Phenylalanine

Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil

Sodium Chloride

Dextran

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Squalane, Glycerin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Ethyl Oleate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Magnesium Sulfate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Zinc PCA, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Alanyl Glutamine, Arginine, Oligopeptide-177, Phenylalanine, Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil, Sodium Chloride, Dextran, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Olus Oil

Cetyl Lactate

Propanediol

C12-16 Alcohols

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate

Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Palmitic Acid

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer

Squalene

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate

Glycine Soja Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Phytosteryl Macadamiate

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Phytosterols

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Gluconolactone

Phenethyl Alcohol

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Carbomer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein is protein extracted from rice. This ingredient is rich in antioxidants and peptides.

Studies show this ingredient may help with blocking the melanin creation process when skin is exposed to UV.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  4. 04Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  5. 05In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  6. 06While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  7. 07Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  8. 08This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  9. 09This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  10. 10Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  11. 11Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  12. 12It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  13. 13Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  14. 14A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  15. 15Ceramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
  16. 16You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
  17. 17The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
  18. 18Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
  19. 19Ceramide EOP is formally known as Ceramide 1.
  20. 20It is naturally found in skin and part of the intercellular "mortar" holding everything together in your outermost layer.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

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Comparison edit

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