Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Symbright Moisturizer

Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Symbright Moisturizer This calming moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Flour and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. What's inside Key Ing

Aveeno Calm + Restore Oat Gel Moisturizer Versus The INKEY List Symbright Moisturizer

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Avena Sativa Kernel Flour and Avena Sativa Kernel Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Cetearyl Olivate

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

Sorbitan Olivate

Polyacrylamide

Synthetic Beeswax

Phenoxyethanol

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Panthenol

Chlorphenesin

Dimethiconol

Carbomer

Laureth-7

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hydroxide

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Olivate, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyacrylamide, Synthetic Beeswax, Phenoxyethanol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Panthenol, Chlorphenesin, Dimethiconol, Carbomer, Laureth-7, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Flower/Leaf/Stem Juice, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Cetearyl Alcohol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Stearic Acid

Benzyl Alcohol

Sclareolide

Mica

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Dehydroacetic Acid

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Sea Water

CI 77891

Water, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Sclareolide, Mica, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sea Water, CI 77891

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
  4. 04You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
  5. 051) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV) 2) activate the same genes retinoids do
  6. 06Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
  7. 07The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
  8. 08Systematic reviews also back this up:
  9. 09Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
  10. 10The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
  11. 11This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
  12. 12Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  13. 13Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  14. 14Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  15. 15Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  16. 16This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  17. 17Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  18. 18Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  19. 19Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
  20. 20In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Brighten-I Eye Cream

The Inkey List Brighten-I Eye Cream The Inkey List Brighten-I Eye Cream ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Cyclopentasiloxane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Trigly…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Snow Mushroom

The Inkey List Snow Mushroom The Inkey List Snow Mushroom ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Caproyl Prol…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side