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Skin science article

AXIS - Y Cera-Heart My Type Duo Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel

AXIS - Y Cera-Heart My Type Duo Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This calming moistur

AXIS - Y Cera-Heart My Type Duo Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Allantoin to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Propanediol

Glycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Butylene Glycol

Sorbitol

Isohexadecane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Betaine

Centella Asiatica Extract

Glyceryl Stearate

Salvia Officinalis Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Sorghum Bicolor Leaf/Stem Extract

Aspergillus Ferment

Chlorphenesin

Arginine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Allantoin

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Guaiazulene

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Ceramide NP

Cetyl Alcohol

Sorbitan Stearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Microcrystalline Wax

Candelilla Cera

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Phragmites Communis Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Arachidyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Arachidyl Glucoside

Carbomer

Propanediol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Isohexadecane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Betaine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Salvia Officinalis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sorghum Bicolor Leaf/Stem Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Chlorphenesin, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Guaiazulene, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Microcrystalline Wax, Candelilla Cera, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Phragmites Communis Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Carbomer

Water

Methyl Trimethicone

Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract

Tromethamine

Glyceryl Glucoside

C12-14 Alketh-12

Maltodextrin

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Panthenol

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Polyquaternium-51

Disodium EDTA

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Glucose

Sodium Citrate

Beta-Glucan

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

Citric Acid

Sucrose

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Cyanocobalamin

Glycine

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Alanine

Lysine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Threonine

Valine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Cysteine

Methionine

Phosphoric Acid

Ascorbic Acid

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Trimethicone, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Glucoside, C12-14 Alketh-12, Maltodextrin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Betaine, Panthenol, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyquaternium-51, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Glucose, Sodium Citrate, Beta-Glucan, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Citric Acid, Sucrose, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Cyanocobalamin, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Phosphoric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient comes from the Asian mountain yam and has skin conditioning properties. Clinical studies have confirmed this ingredient to work as an effective moisturizer.

The extract is rich in compounds like diosgenin, polysaccharides, and polyphenols, gallic acid, and vanillic acid. Research on these extracts has demonstrated antioxidant effects in-vitro and anti-inflammatory activity in animal models.

The bioactives in the root extract have also been shown in lab tests to have anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties.

A big 2022 review looked at the whole Dioscorea family and found these plants consistently showed antioxidant activity across the board.

This ingredient is gentle and well-tolerated by all skin types.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Butylene Glycol
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 041,2-Hexanediol
  5. 05Methyl Trimethicone
  6. 06Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract
  7. 07Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  8. 08Tromethamine
  9. 09Glyceryl Glucoside
  10. 10C12-14 Alketh-12
  11. 11Maltodextrin
  12. 12Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
  13. 13Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  14. 14Dimethicone Crosspolymer
  15. 15Ethylhexylglycerin
  16. 16Betaine
  17. 17Panthenol
  18. 18Allantoin
  19. 19Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
  20. 20Polyquaternium-51
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side