Skin science article
AXIS - Y Cera-Heart My Type Duo Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel
AXIS - Y Cera-Heart My Type Duo Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This calming moistur
AXIS - Y Cera-Heart My Type Duo Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Water Gel
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Centella Asiatica Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Allantoin to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Propanediol
Glycerin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Butylene Glycol
Sorbitol
Isohexadecane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Betaine
Centella Asiatica Extract
Glyceryl Stearate
Salvia Officinalis Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Sorghum Bicolor Leaf/Stem Extract
Aspergillus Ferment
Chlorphenesin
Arginine
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Allantoin
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan Gum
Guaiazulene
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Ceramide NP
Cetyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Stearate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Microcrystalline Wax
Candelilla Cera
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract
Phragmites Communis Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Arachidyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Carbomer
Propanediol, Glycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Isohexadecane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Betaine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Salvia Officinalis Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sorghum Bicolor Leaf/Stem Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Chlorphenesin, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Allantoin, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Guaiazulene, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Microcrystalline Wax, Candelilla Cera, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Phragmites Communis Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Carbomer
Water
Methyl Trimethicone
Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract
Tromethamine
Glyceryl Glucoside
C12-14 Alketh-12
Maltodextrin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Panthenol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Polyquaternium-51
Disodium EDTA
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Glucose
Sodium Citrate
Beta-Glucan
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Citric Acid
Sucrose
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Caprylyl Glycol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Cyanocobalamin
Glycine
Serine
Glutamic Acid
Aspartic Acid
Leucine
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Alanine
Lysine
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Threonine
Valine
Isoleucine
Histidine
Cysteine
Methionine
Phosphoric Acid
Ascorbic Acid
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Trimethicone, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Glyceryl Glucoside, C12-14 Alketh-12, Maltodextrin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Betaine, Panthenol, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Polyquaternium-51, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Glucose, Sodium Citrate, Beta-Glucan, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Citric Acid, Sucrose, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Cyanocobalamin, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Phosphoric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
This ingredient comes from the Asian mountain yam and has skin conditioning properties. Clinical studies have confirmed this ingredient to work as an effective moisturizer.
The extract is rich in compounds like diosgenin, polysaccharides, and polyphenols, gallic acid, and vanillic acid. Research on these extracts has demonstrated antioxidant effects in-vitro and anti-inflammatory activity in animal models.
The bioactives in the root extract have also been shown in lab tests to have anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties.
A big 2022 review looked at the whole Dioscorea family and found these plants consistently showed antioxidant activity across the board.
This ingredient is gentle and well-tolerated by all skin types.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.