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Skin science article

AXIS - Y Complete No-Stress Physical Sunscreen SPF 50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Moist Sun Serum SPF 50+ PA++++

AXIS - Y Complete No-Stress Physical Sunscreen SPF 50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Moist Sun Serum SPF 50+ PA++++ This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks

AXIS - Y Complete No-Stress Physical Sunscreen SPF 50+ Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Moist Sun Serum SPF 50+ PA++++

This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclohexasiloxane

Zinc Oxide

CI 77891

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Dibutyl Adipate

Niacinamide

Caprylyl Methicone

1,2-Hexanediol

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Betaine

Magnesium Sulfate

Hydrogen Dimethicone

Inositol

Aluminum Hydroxide

C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer

Stearic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Octyldodecanol

Adenosine

Glycerin

Squalane

Allantoin

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Artemisia Capillaris Extract 0.005%

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Tocopherol

Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, CI 77891, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Dibutyl Adipate, Niacinamide, Caprylyl Methicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Betaine, Magnesium Sulfate, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Inositol, Aluminum Hydroxide, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Octyldodecanol, Adenosine, Glycerin, Squalane, Allantoin, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Artemisia Capillaris Extract 0.005%, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Tocopherol

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Alcohol

Acrylates Copolymer

Butyloctyl Salicylate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Phenethyl Benzoate

Arbutin

Silica

Methylpropanediol

Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate

Polysilicone-15

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide

C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Ethyl Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Panax Ginseng Extract

Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Alcohol, Acrylates Copolymer, Butyloctyl Salicylate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Phenethyl Benzoate, Arbutin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Silica, Methylpropanediol, Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, Polysilicone-15, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ethyl Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Panax Ginseng Extract, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Tocopherol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.

You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.

This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.

In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.

Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
  10. 10As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
  11. 11It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
  12. 12A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
  13. 13Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a sugar created by fermenting sorbitol (which usually comes from potato starch!). It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties.
  14. 14Manufacturer tests show this ingredient helped reduce irritation from lactic acid by almost half and kept skin hydrated long-term as a humectant
  15. 15Beyond hydration, Biosaccharide Gum-1 gives formulas a silky, non-sticky feel.
  16. 16This ingredient is gentle, versatile, and suitable for all skin types.
  17. 17Fun fact: Similar sugars can be found naturally in fruits like apples and pears.
  18. 18This ingredient is better known as bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S and is one of the best broad-spectrum UV filters in modern sunscreen.
  19. 19It works by absorbing UV light across a whole range (280-400 nm) with peaks around 310 nm (UVB) and 340-345 nm (UVA). This means it covers UVB plus the deeper UVA wavelengths that drive photoaging and pigmentation.
  20. 20Another pro?
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side