Skin science article
AXIS - Y Daily Purifying Treatment Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Bubble Toner: Green Plum + AHA
AXIS - Y Daily Purifying Treatment Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Bubble Toner: Green Plum + AHA This acne toner is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Gluconolactone to clear breakouts and refine skin texture. This smoothing toner is formulated aro
AXIS - Y Daily Purifying Treatment Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Bubble Toner: Green Plum + AHA
This acne toner is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Gluconolactone to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.
This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Centella Asiatica Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hieracium Umbellatum Extract
Gluconolactone
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Glycolic Acid
Betaine
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Salicylic Acid
Sodium Citrate
Illicium Verum Fruit Extract
Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Arginine
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Rheum Palmatum Root Extract
Artemisia Princeps Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Chlorphenesin
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Carbomer
Dimethyl Sulfone
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Linalool
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Water, Centella Asiatica Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hieracium Umbellatum Extract, Gluconolactone, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Glycolic Acid, Betaine, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Illicium Verum Fruit Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Arginine, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Rheum Palmatum Root Extract, Artemisia Princeps Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Chlorphenesin, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Carbomer, Dimethyl Sulfone, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Linalool, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Prunus Mume Fruit Water
Dipropylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Water
Honey Extract
Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Tromethamine
Sodium PCA
Glucose
C12-14 Pareth-12
Fructooligosaccharides
Fructose
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Phytate
Tocopherol
Ethyl Hexanediol
Water, Prunus Mume Fruit Water, Glycolic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Glycerin, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Sodium PCA, Glucose, C12-14 Pareth-12, Butylene Glycol, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Tocopherol, Ethyl Hexanediol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.
In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.
One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.
Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.
There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.
Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.
Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.
For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.
In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
This ingredient is also called sugarcane extract. It is a moisturizing humectant and has skin soothing properties.
Similar to hyaluronic acid, sugarcane can attract moisture to your skin.
Glycolic acid is a derivative of sugarcane. While glycolic acid is an AHA with exfoliating properties, sugarcane is not an AHA.
A study from 2021 found the compounds in sugarcane extract to have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activity. The study also suggests these compounds can inhibit skin ageing enzymes and promote collagen synthesis.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!