Skin science article
AXIS - Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Replenishing Rice Milk
AXIS - Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Replenishing Rice Milk This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Glutathione to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This hydrating toner is formulat
AXIS - Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Toner Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Replenishing Rice Milk
This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Glutathione to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This hydrating toner is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Panthenol to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Glutathione
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Adenosine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Panthenol
Squalane
Glycerin
Allantoin
Cyanocobalamin
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Morus Alba Root Extract
Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract
Canavalia Gladiata Seed Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Lens Esculenta Seed Extract
Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Ceramide NP
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Dipeptide-1
Tripeptide-2
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7
Dipeptide-4
Sorbitan Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
1,2-Hexanediol
Stearic Acid
Polysorbate 60
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Disodium EDTA
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Chlorphenesin
Maltodextrin
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Arginine
Phytosterols
Carbomer
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Citric Acid
Water, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glutathione, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Squalane, Glycerin, Allantoin, Cyanocobalamin, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Canavalia Gladiata Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Lens Esculenta Seed Extract, Ceratonia Siliqua Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Dipeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Dipeptide-4, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Chlorphenesin, Maltodextrin, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Arginine, Phytosterols, Carbomer, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Citric Acid
Methylpropanediol
Propanediol
Glycereth-26
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Oryza Sativa Extract
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Aluminum Chlorohydrate
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Kaolin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Dextrin
Tocopherol
Rice Amino Acids
Water, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Aluminum Chlorohydrate, Butylene Glycol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sodium Citrate, Kaolin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Citric Acid, Dextrin, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Rice Amino Acids
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!