AXIS - Y Mugwort Green Vital Energy Complex Sheet Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Centella Asiatica Calming Mask

AXIS - Y Mugwort Green Vital Energy Complex Sheet Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Centella Asiatica Calming Mask

This calming sheet mask is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.

This calming sheet mask is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Water

Dipropylene Glycol

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Dextrin

Salvia Officinalis Oil

Juniperus Mexicana Oil

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract

Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract

Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water

Carbomer

Allantoin

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Caprylyl Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Phytate

Caramel

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Dextrin, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Water, Carbomer, Allantoin, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Caramel, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycereth-26

Niacinamide

Arginine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Carrageenan

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Panthenol

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Propanediol

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid

Water, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Arginine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Carrageenan, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Panthenol, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Propanediol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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