Skin science article
Barr Centella Calming Gel Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Fulvic Acid Brightening Cleanser
Barr Centella Calming Gel Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Fulvic Acid Brightening Cleanser This gel cleanser uses mild cleansing ingredients, but contains alcohol that may feel drying for some. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by
Barr Centella Calming Gel Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Fulvic Acid Brightening Cleanser
This gel cleanser uses mild cleansing ingredients, but contains alcohol that may feel drying for some.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Lauryl Betaine
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Glycerin
Sodium Chloride
1,2-Hexanediol
Cocamide Mipa
Gluconolactone
Caprylyl Glycol
Propylene Glycol Laurate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Allantoin
Disodium EDTA
Citric Acid
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Xanthan Gum
Butylene Glycol
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Centella Asiatica Extract
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Ceramide NP
Sodium Hyaluronate
Water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Lauryl Betaine, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cocamide Mipa, Gluconolactone, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate
Coco-Glucoside
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl Alcohol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Peat
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Dehydroacetic Acid
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Coco-Glucoside, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Peat, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Disodium EDTA, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Dehydroacetic Acid, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Potassium Sorbate
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Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.