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Skin science article

Baxter of California Oil Free Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol

Baxter of California Oil Free Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-rep

Baxter of California Oil Free Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 15 Versus Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer with Retinol

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Retinol and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Squalane

Glycerin

Propylene Glycol

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Palmitic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Triethanolamine

Carbomer

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Polyacrylate

Tocopherol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Myristic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Trideceth-6

Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Palmitic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Polyacrylate, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Myristic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Trideceth-6

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Ethylhexyl Stearate

Cocoglycerides

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Lecithin

Adenosine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Ceramide NP

Retinol

Punica Granatum Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tocopheryl Acetate

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Glycine Soja Oil

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Lecithin, Adenosine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Retinol, Punica Granatum Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Butylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract comes from the leaves of the tea oil plant, the cousin of the green tea plant Camellia Sinensis. This ingredient is mainly added to skincare as a mild skin-conditioning and astringent ingredient.

Early lab studies show it can calm inflammation and slightly inhibit the enzyme that triggers dark spots. Modern studies also show it to have antibacterial and antioxidant effects that support anti-inflammatory use.

There's no dedicated safety review for this ingredient for now, but its cousin Camellia Sinensis has been reviewed and found to be without safety concerns.

Like most botanical extracts, this ingredient carries a low but real chance of contact allergy or mild irritation in sensitive individuals.

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.

Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.

Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.

Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.

Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.

This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Homosalate 12%
  2. 02Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.5%
  3. 03Octocrylene 7%
  4. 04Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
  5. 05Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
  6. 06Water
  7. 07Glycerin
  8. 08Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer
  9. 09Dimethicone
  10. 10Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
  11. 11Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
  12. 12Phenoxyethanol
  13. 13Glyceryl Stearate Se
  14. 14Cetyl Alcohol
  15. 15Xanthan Gum
  16. 16Benzyl Alcohol
  17. 17Sodium Benzoate
  18. 18Potassium Sorbate
  19. 19Tocopheryl Acetate
  20. 20Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side