Skin science article
Beauty Bay 5% Niacinamide + Vitamin C Toner Versus Allies of Skin Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser
Beauty Bay 5% Niacinamide + Vitamin C Toner Versus Allies of Skin Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and balance excess oil. This lactic ac
Beauty Bay 5% Niacinamide + Vitamin C Toner Versus Allies of Skin Molecular Silk Amino Hydrating Cleanser
This brightening toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate to brighten dull-looking skin and balance excess oil.
This lactic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Lactic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Niacinamide
Heptyl Glucoside
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Lactobacillus Ferment
Chlorphenesin
Benzyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Water, Niacinamide, Heptyl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Chlorphenesin, Benzyl Alcohol, Citric Acid
Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Glycerin
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Propanediol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Lactic Acid
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids
Hydrolyzed Silk
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Lecithin
Astaxanthin
Xanthan Gum
Lauryl Glucoside
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate
Caprylyl Glycol
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Tetrasodium EDTA
Phenethyl Alcohol
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Propanediol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Silk, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lecithin, Astaxanthin, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Lauryl Glucoside, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, Caprylyl Glycol, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Polysorbate 20, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenethyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!