Beauty of Joseon Bamboo Darkspot Serum Versus La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum With Melasyl+Niacinamide

Beauty of Joseon Bamboo Darkspot Serum Versus La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Dark Spot Serum With Melasyl+Niacinamide

This brightening serum is formulated around Phenylethyl Resorcinol and Bambusa Vulgaris Extract to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine to fade the look of dark spots and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

1,2-Hexanediol

Methylpropanediol

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Betaine

Pentylene Glycol

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

Panthenol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate

Tromethamine

Diphenyl Dimethicone

Triethylhexanoin

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Sodium Phytate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Beta-Glucan

Silica

Tocopherol

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Betaine, Pentylene Glycol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Tromethamine, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Triethylhexanoin, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Beta-Glucan, Silica, Tocopherol

Dimethicone

Niacinamide

Propylene Glycol

Polysilicone-11

Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone

Cystoseira Tamariscifolia Extract

2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine

PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Thiosulfate

Carnosine

Poloxamer 338

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Citric Acid

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Octyldodecanol

Retinyl Palmitate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Phenoxyethanol

CI 17200

Parfum

Water, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Polysilicone-11, Silica, Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Cystoseira Tamariscifolia Extract, 2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Thiosulfate, Carnosine, Poloxamer 338, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 17200, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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