Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus Arencia Holy Hyssop Serum 30
Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus Arencia Holy Hyssop Serum 30 This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This brightening serum is formulated arou
Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus Arencia Holy Hyssop Serum 30
This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Panthenol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Methylpropanediol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Betaine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Allantoin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Malt Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Water, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Malt Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate
Propanediol
Niacinamide
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Arginine
Dextrin
Adenosine
Pvm/Ma Copolymer
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Hyssopus Officinalis Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Tocopherol
Pyridoxine
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ceramide NP
Glycosphingolipids
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Potassium Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Dextrin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Adenosine, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyssopus Officinalis Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Pyridoxine, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Glycosphingolipids, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is made up of glycerin and polyacrylic acid. It helps hydrate your skin as a humectant.
This ingredient forms a hydrogel that delivers moisturizing, water-based ingredients to the skin. It is also used to thicken a product and to give it a smooth texture.
Acrylic acid itself is toxic, but the polymer form (this ingredient) is too large to penetrate skin, making it non-toxic.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!