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Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus PURITO Centella Unscented Serum

Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus PURITO Centella Unscented Serum This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract an

Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus PURITO Centella Unscented Serum

This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Panthenol

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Water

Ceramide AP

1,2-Hexanediol

Methylpropanediol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Betaine

Allantoin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Polyquaternium-51

Malt Extract

Punica Granatum Extract

Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract

Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Betaine, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Polyquaternium-51, Malt Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Clitoria Ternatea Flower Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate

Centella Asiatica Extract 49%

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Glycereth-26

Ceramide NP

Asiaticoside

Asiatic Acid

Madecassic Acid

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10

Carbomer

Arginine

Sclerotium Gum

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Pancratium Maritimum Extract

Disodium EDTA

Adenosine

Centella Asiatica Extract 49%, Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycereth-26, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-10, Carbomer, Arginine, Sclerotium Gum, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  4. 04Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  5. 05It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  6. 06Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  7. 07A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  8. 08Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
  9. 09This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
  10. 10On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
  11. 11One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too st…
  12. 12Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
  13. 13You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
  14. 14Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  15. 15Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  16. 16Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  17. 17Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  18. 18This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  19. 19Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  20. 20Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Source · skinsort.com
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