Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Blue Serum
Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Blue Serum This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This hydrating seru
Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Blue Serum
This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Niacinamide to hydrate skin and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Panthenol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Methylpropanediol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Betaine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Allantoin
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Malt Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Water, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Malt Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water 38%
Niacinamide
Pantolactone
Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Cetearyl Olivate
Carbomer
Arginine
Sorbitan Olivate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Adenosine
Polyglutamic Acid
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Iris Florentina Root Extract
Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
Sodium Phytate
Xanthan Gum
Maltodextrin
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ceramide NP
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water 38%, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Pantolactone, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Methylpropanediol, Panthenol, Cetearyl Olivate, Carbomer, Arginine, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Adenosine, Polyglutamic Acid, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Sodium Phytate, Xanthan Gum, Maltodextrin, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!