Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus TONYMOLY Propolis Tower Barrier Rebalancing Toner

Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol Versus TONYMOLY Propolis Tower Barrier Rebalancing Toner

This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming toner is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Panthenol

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Methylpropanediol

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tromethamine

Betaine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Allantoin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Polyquaternium-51

Malt Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Water, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Malt Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate

Propolis Extract 83%

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Dipropylene Glycol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Arctium Lappa Root Extract

Scrophularia Buergeriana Extract

Honey Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Vitex Agnus Castus Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Adenosine

Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Jasminum Officinale Flower Water

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Vinyldimethicone

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Ceramide NP

Beta-Glucan

Propolis Extract 83%, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Scrophularia Buergeriana Extract, Honey Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Vitex Agnus Castus Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Adenosine, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Panthenol, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Jasminum Officinale Flower Water, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, Vinyldimethicone, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ceramide NP, Beta-Glucan

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.

This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.

Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.

A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.

Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).

Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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