Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Daily Relief Sunscreen SPF 40 Versus Foxtale SPF 70 Dewy Finish Sunscreen
Beauty of Joseon Daily Relief Sunscreen SPF 40 Versus Foxtale SPF 70 Dewy Finish Sunscreen This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side
Beauty of Joseon Daily Relief Sunscreen SPF 40 Versus Foxtale SPF 70 Dewy Finish Sunscreen
This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Homosalate
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Octocrylene
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Dipropylene Glycol
Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Glycerin
Caprylyl Methicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Silica
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Pentylene Glycol
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Oryza Sativa Extract
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Water, Homosalate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Dipropylene Glycol, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Glycerin, Caprylyl Methicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Silica, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Oryza Sativa Extract, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Propylene Glycol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Dimethicone
Ceteareth-20
Tris-Biphenyl Triazine
Decyl Glucoside
Butylene Glycol
Disodium Phosphate
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer
Niacinamide
Phenoxyethanol
Octenidine Hcl
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Chrysin
Panthenol
Triethanolamine
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
Water, Carbomer, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Dimethicone, Ceteareth-20, Tris-Biphenyl Triazine, Decyl Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer, Niacinamide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Octenidine Hcl, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Pentylene Glycol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Chrysin, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Triethanolamine, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!