Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Daily Relief Sunscreen SPF 40 Versus Numbuzin No.1 Clear Filter Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++
Beauty of Joseon Daily Relief Sunscreen SPF 40 Versus Numbuzin No.1 Clear Filter Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++ This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and bloc
Beauty of Joseon Daily Relief Sunscreen SPF 40 Versus Numbuzin No.1 Clear Filter Sun Essence SPF50+ PA++++
This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Homosalate
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Octocrylene
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Dipropylene Glycol
Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Glycerin
Caprylyl Methicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Silica
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Pentylene Glycol
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Oryza Sativa Extract
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Water, Homosalate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Dipropylene Glycol, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Glycerin, Caprylyl Methicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Silica, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Oryza Sativa Extract, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water 20.55%
Centella Asiatica Extract 15%
Houttuynia Cordata Extract 14.25%
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Niacinamide
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polysilicone-15
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract
Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract
Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract
Velvet Extract
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
Atractylodes Lancea Root Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Butylene Glycol
Methylpropanediol
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Xanthan Gum
Adenosine
Polyether-1
Madecassoside
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Potassium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water 20.55%, Centella Asiatica Extract 15%, Houttuynia Cordata Extract 14.25%, Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Niacinamide, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Methicone, Polysilicone-15, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Anastatica Hierochuntica Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Velvet Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Atractylodes Lancea Root Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Stearate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Polyether-1, Madecassoside, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Glycerin, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.
According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.
Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.
When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.
If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!