Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tea-Trica Soothing Sun Milk SPF 50+
Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tea-Trica Soothing Sun Milk SPF 50+ This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingred
Beauty of Joseon Daily Tinted Fluid Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tea-Trica Soothing Sun Milk SPF 50+
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide
Water
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Isopropyl Myristate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
Alcohol Denat.
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Butylene Glycol
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Propanediol
Silica
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Stearic Acid
Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Stearalkonium Hectorite
Undecane
1,2-Hexanediol
Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Tridecane
Polyglycerin-6
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Tocopherol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
CI 77492
CI 77491
CI 77499
Zinc Oxide, Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Isopropyl Myristate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Alcohol Denat., Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Silica, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyhydroxystearate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Undecane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tridecane, Polyglycerin-6, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499
Dibutyl Adipate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Niacinamide
Tromethamine
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Caprylyl Methicone
Pentylene Glycol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polysilicone-15
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Laurate
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Carbomer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate
Adenosine
Glycerin
Ethoxydiglycol
Octyldodecanol
Asiaticoside
Glycolipids
Madecassic Acid
Asiatic Acid
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
C12-13 Alketh-9
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Ceramide NP
Dilauryl Citrate
Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Niacinamide, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Methicone, Pentylene Glycol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-15, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Laurate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Adenosine, Butylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Zinc Oxide, Ethoxydiglycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Asiaticoside, Glycolipids, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, C12-13 Alketh-9, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Ceramide NP, Dilauryl Citrate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.
According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.
Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Zinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.
On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.
Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.
That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).
The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.
So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.
Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.
That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.
It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.
This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.
It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.
Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.
The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.
Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.
The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.
Another thing worth understanding about formulation:
Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.
A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.
Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).
Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.
As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.
This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.
The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.
Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".
You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.
So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.
The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.
Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.
A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.
The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.
So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.
If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.