Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Haruharu Wonder Wonder Black Rice Hyaluronic Cream
Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Haruharu Wonder Wonder Black Rice Hyaluronic Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moist
Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Haruharu Wonder Wonder Black Rice Hyaluronic Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Panax Ginseng Root Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
Hydrogenated Lecithin
C14-28 Alkyl Acid
Stearyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone
Adenosine
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Stearic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Centella Asiatica Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ceramide NP
Trehalose
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
1,2-Hexanediol
Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Cucurbitaceae Extract
Orchid Extract
Honey Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Phytosphingosine
Ceteareth-20
Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum
Propanediol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate
Oryza Sativa Extract
Heptyl Undecylenate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract
Aspergillus Ferment
Cyclodextrin
Hyaluronic Acid
Pulsatilla Koreana Extract
Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Usnea Barbata Extract
Cetyl Palmitate
Sodium Phytate
Sorbitan Palmitate
Alcohol
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Water, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glycerin, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Heptyl Undecylenate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Phyllostachys Pubescens Shoot Bark Extract, Aspergillus Ferment, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Cyclodextrin, Hyaluronic Acid, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Usnea Barbata Extract, Cetyl Palmitate, Sodium Phytate, Sorbitan Palmitate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil comes from the seeds of the safflower plant. It is a skin conditioning agent that helps soften skin and keep it hydrated.
This seed oil has an unusual fatty acid profile: it is one of the highest linoleic acid plant oils out there (~55-77%). It also has low amounts of oleic acid, and this high-linoleic/low-oleic ratio gets people excited.
Linoleic acid helps maintain skin barrier integrity and is a building block for the ceramides in your stratum corneum. Notably, people with acne tend to have lower linoleic acid in their skin lipids as well (and this gets worse as acne gets more severe).
Overall, it's a lightweight, fast-absorbing oil that has a long safety track record. Lab testing has found it to be non-irritating for skin or eyes.
The Malassezia yeast can metabolize the fatty acids in this oil to grow; therefore this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.
In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.
One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.
Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.
There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.
Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.
Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.
For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.
In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!