Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer
Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This day moisturizer is formulated around S
Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Kiehl's Ultra Facial Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This day moisturizer is formulated around Squalene to hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
Hydrogenated Lecithin
C14-28 Alkyl Acid
Stearyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone
Adenosine
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Stearic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Centella Asiatica Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ceramide NP
Trehalose
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
1,2-Hexanediol
Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Cucurbitaceae Extract
Orchid Extract
Honey Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Phytosphingosine
Ceteareth-20
Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum
Propylene Glycol
Dicaprylyl Ether
PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Squalene
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Phenoxyethanol
Sorbitan Oleate
Caprylyl Glycol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Triethanolamine
Beeswax
Tocopherol
Disodium EDTA
Myristyl Alcohol
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Persea Gratissima Oil
Water, Propylene Glycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Squalene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan Oleate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Triethanolamine, Beeswax, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA, Stearic Acid, Myristyl Alcohol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!