Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Probio Ampoule

Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) Versus Missha Time Revolution Night Repair Probio Ampoule

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair ampoule is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Polysorbate 20

Hydrogenated Lecithin

C14-28 Alkyl Acid

Stearyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone

Adenosine

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Stearic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceramide NP

Trehalose

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Cucurbitaceae Extract

Orchid Extract

Honey Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Phytosphingosine

Ceteareth-20

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Glycereth-26

Sorbus Commixta Extract

Juniperus Chinensis Xylem Extract

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate

Betaine

Grifola Frondosa/Ophioglossum Vulgatum Extract Ferment Filtrate

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Sea Water

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes

Hydrolyzed Extensin

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Beta Vulgaris Root Extract

Aronia Arbutifolia Extract

Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Cassia Alata Leaf Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Saccharomyces/Viscum Album Ferment Extract

Yeast Ferment Extract

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Beta-Sitosterol

Panthenol

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Ubiquinone

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Retinol

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Biotin

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Acacia Arabica Stem Bark Extract

Cholesterol

Glyceryl Linolenate

Glyceryl Linoleate

Glyceryl Arachidonate

Ethyl Hexanediol

PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

PPG-26-Buteth-26

Carbomer

Glyceryl Caprylate

Triethanolamine

Octyldodecanol

Dipropylene Glycol

Cyclomethicone

Disodium EDTA

Dextrin

Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Dimethiconol

Propylene Glycol

Ceteth-24

Choleth-24

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer

Cetyl Phosphate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lecithin

PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol

BHT

Ceteth-3

Ceteth-5

Silica

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycereth-26, Sorbus Commixta Extract, Juniperus Chinensis Xylem Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Betaine, Grifola Frondosa/Ophioglossum Vulgatum Extract Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Sea Water, Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Adenosine, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Aronia Arbutifolia Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Viscum Album Ferment Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Beta-Sitosterol, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ubiquinone, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Retinol, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Biotin, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Acacia Arabica Stem Bark Extract, Cholesterol, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethyl Hexanediol, Dimethicone, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Triethanolamine, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Octyldodecanol, Xanthan Gum, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclomethicone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Dextrin, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Dimethiconol, Propylene Glycol, Ceteth-24, Choleth-24, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Cetyl Phosphate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, BHT, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Silica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.

Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.

The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics

There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.

Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.

The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.

Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.

Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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