Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil Versus Needly Mild Deep Cleansing Oil
Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil Versus Needly Mild Deep Cleansing Oil This oil-based cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry. What's inside Key Ingredients No key ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Glycine
Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil Versus Needly Mild Deep Cleansing Oil
This oil-based cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Glycine Soja Oil
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
Isododecane
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Coconut Oil
Octyldodecanol
Polybutene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Water
Tocopherol
Salvia Officinalis Oil
Panax Ginseng Seed Oil
Artemisia Vulgaris Oil
Ocimum Basilicum Oil
Corylus Avellana Seed Oil
Nigella Sativa Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Methylpropanediol
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Ethyl Hexanediol
Panax Ginseng Extract
Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Glycine Soja Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Isododecane, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Octyldodecanol, Polybutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, Tocopherol, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Panax Ginseng Seed Oil, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Ocimum Basilicum Oil, Corylus Avellana Seed Oil, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ethyl Hexanediol, Panax Ginseng Extract, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Triethylhexanoin
Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Caprylyl Glycol
Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Saponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract
Limonene
Linalool
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Triethylhexanoin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Ethylhexylglycerin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Saponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract, Limonene, Linalool
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
This ingredient is also known as Tsubaki oil, or the fixed oil from the seeds of the Japanese camellia.
It's basically a fatty acid delivery system (~75-85% oleic acid) plus some minor extras like squalene, tocopherols, and phytosterols.
That profile makes it a classic emollient; it works by hanging out with the skin's surface lipids, softens, and slows down water loss.
The most cited study on it was done on skin cells in a dish where this oil got them to make more of the building blocks for collagen while also slowing down the enzyme that breaks collagen down. Researchers tested this on human skin too; it didn't cause irritation and helped skin hold onto moisture better.
Another study done on cells and mice found this oil quieted down some of the body's inflammation signals.
These studies are still small, early, and not done on humans, so it's best to think of this ingredient as a great supporting ingredient for the rest of your routine and not the main active.
Concentrations can range from 1-5% in serums to 100% as a single face oil (how it's most traditionally used).
Because this ingredient is a triglyceride of long-chain fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia safe.
Allergies to this protein are quite rare as the refined seed oil contains very little residual protein. Human irritation testing also came back clean. But it is a plant and as with any botanical ingredient, contact allergy is possible.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
This ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate is a surfactant and emulsifier.
This ingredient is a tetraester from oleic acid and polyethylene glycol ether of sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it helps ingredients such as oil and water mix together. This allows the dirt and oils in your skin to be washed away.
One study found pumpkin oil containing Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate helped hydrate the skin and did not cause any irritation.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!