Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil Versus Papa Recipe Blemish Cleansing Oil

Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil Versus Papa Recipe Blemish Cleansing Oil

This oil-based cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.

This oil-based makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Glycine Soja Oil

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

Isododecane

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Coconut Oil

Octyldodecanol

Polybutene

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Water

Tocopherol

Salvia Officinalis Oil

Panax Ginseng Seed Oil

Artemisia Vulgaris Oil

Ocimum Basilicum Oil

Corylus Avellana Seed Oil

Nigella Sativa Seed Oil

Butylene Glycol

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Methylpropanediol

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Ethyl Hexanediol

Panax Ginseng Extract

Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycine Soja Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Isododecane, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Octyldodecanol, Polybutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, Tocopherol, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Panax Ginseng Seed Oil, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Ocimum Basilicum Oil, Corylus Avellana Seed Oil, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ethyl Hexanediol, Panax Ginseng Extract, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 71%

Isopropyl Myristate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil

Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Vigna Radiata Seed Extract

Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Hovenia Dulcis Fruit Extract

Parfum

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 71%, Isopropyl Myristate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Water, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Carapa Guaianensis Seed Oil, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Butylene Glycol, Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Oil, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hovenia Dulcis Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as Tsubaki oil, or the fixed oil from the seeds of the Japanese camellia.

It's basically a fatty acid delivery system (~75-85% oleic acid) plus some minor extras like squalene, tocopherols, and phytosterols.

That profile makes it a classic emollient; it works by hanging out with the skin's surface lipids, softens, and slows down water loss.

The most cited study on it was done on skin cells in a dish where this oil got them to make more of the building blocks for collagen while also slowing down the enzyme that breaks collagen down. Researchers tested this on human skin too; it didn't cause irritation and helped skin hold onto moisture better.

Another study done on cells and mice found this oil quieted down some of the body's inflammation signals.

These studies are still small, early, and not done on humans, so it's best to think of this ingredient as a great supporting ingredient for the rest of your routine and not the main active.

Concentrations can range from 1-5% in serums to 100% as a single face oil (how it's most traditionally used).

Because this ingredient is a triglyceride of long-chain fatty acids, this ingredient may not be Malassezia safe.

Allergies to this protein are quite rare as the refined seed oil contains very little residual protein. Human irritation testing also came back clean. But it is a plant and as with any botanical ingredient, contact allergy is possible.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.

The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.

On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.

Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.

Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.

This ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.

The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.

Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.

The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.

Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.

It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).

Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.

Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate is a surfactant and emulsifier.

This ingredient is a tetraester from oleic acid and polyethylene glycol ether of sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it helps ingredients such as oil and water mix together. This allows the dirt and oils in your skin to be washed away.

One study found pumpkin oil containing Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate helped hydrate the skin and did not cause any irritation.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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