Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil Versus REN Clean Skincare ClearCalm 3 Replenishing Gel Cream For Blemish Prone Skin

Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil Versus REN Clean Skincare ClearCalm 3 Replenishing Gel Cream For Blemish Prone Skin This oil-based cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry. This calming moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrh

Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Cleansing Oil Versus REN Clean Skincare ClearCalm 3 Replenishing Gel Cream For Blemish Prone Skin

This oil-based cleanser is made to cleanse without leaving your skin tight or dry.

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Glycine Soja Oil

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

Isododecane

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Coconut Oil

Octyldodecanol

Polybutene

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Water

Tocopherol

Salvia Officinalis Oil

Panax Ginseng Seed Oil

Artemisia Vulgaris Oil

Ocimum Basilicum Oil

Corylus Avellana Seed Oil

Nigella Sativa Seed Oil

Butylene Glycol

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Methylpropanediol

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Ethyl Hexanediol

Panax Ginseng Extract

Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycine Soja Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Isododecane, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Octyldodecanol, Polybutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Water, Tocopherol, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Panax Ginseng Seed Oil, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Ocimum Basilicum Oil, Corylus Avellana Seed Oil, Nigella Sativa Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ethyl Hexanediol, Panax Ginseng Extract, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Oleyl Alcohol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Lauryl Laurate

Myristyl Myristate

Cetearyl Glucoside

Alcohol Denat.

Oryzanol

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Seed Oil

Carbomer

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Lactic Acid

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Pueraria Lobata Symbiosome Extract

Cassia Alata Leaf Extract

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Citronellol

Geraniol

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Oleyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycine Soja Oil, Lauryl Laurate, Myristyl Myristate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Alcohol Denat., Oryzanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Seed Oil, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Seed Oil, Carbomer, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Tocopherol, Lactic Acid, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Pueraria Lobata Symbiosome Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.

The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.

On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.

Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.

Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.

Salvia Officinalis Oil is an oil.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  10. 10Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  11. 11Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  12. 12Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.
  13. 13Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
  14. 14The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure …
  15. 15Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
  16. 16Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
  17. 17Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
  18. 18It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
  19. 19Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
  20. 20Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side