Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Moist Sun Serum SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus P20 SPF 20 Sunscreen

Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Moist Sun Serum SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus P20 SPF 20 Sunscreen

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~95% of UVB at SPF 20, below the SPF 30 recommended for daily use.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

No benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Dibutyl Adipate

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Alcohol

Acrylates Copolymer

Butyloctyl Salicylate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Phenethyl Benzoate

Arbutin

1,2-Hexanediol

Silica

Methylpropanediol

Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate

Polysilicone-15

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide

C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Ethyl Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Panax Ginseng Extract

Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract

Adenosine

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycerin

Tocopherol

Water, Butylene Glycol, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Alcohol, Acrylates Copolymer, Butyloctyl Salicylate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Phenethyl Benzoate, Arbutin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Silica, Methylpropanediol, Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, Polysilicone-15, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ethyl Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Panax Ginseng Extract, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycerin, Tocopherol

Alcohol Denat.

Octocrylene

Homosalate

PPG-15 Stearyl Ether

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer

Hydroxypropylcellulose

Alcohol Denat., C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Octocrylene, Homosalate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer, Hydroxypropylcellulose

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.

In cosmetics, it plays several roles:

The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.

This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.

It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.

Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.

This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.

Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.

Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.

The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).

In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.

So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

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