Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum: Rice + Arbutin Versus AXIS - Y Spot The Difference Blemish Treatment
Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum: Rice + Arbutin Versus AXIS - Y Spot The Difference Blemish Treatment This brightening serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This acne serum is f
Beauty of Joseon Glow Deep Serum: Rice + Arbutin Versus AXIS - Y Spot The Difference Blemish Treatment
This brightening serum is formulated around Alpha-Arbutin and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This acne serum is formulated around Niacinamide and 4-Terpineol to clear breakouts and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Oryza Sativa Bran Water 68.6%
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Dipropylene Glycol
Alpha-Arbutin 2%
Niacinamide
Methyl Gluceth-20
Panthenol
Polyglycerin-3
Trehalose
Glyceryl Glucoside
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Xanthan Gum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Arginine
Disodium EDTA
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Sorbitan Isostearate
Glucose
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Hordeum Distichon Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Triticum Vulgare Seed Extract
Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Water 68.6%, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Alpha-Arbutin 2%, Niacinamide, Methyl Gluceth-20, Panthenol, Polyglycerin-3, Trehalose, Glyceryl Glucoside, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Disodium EDTA, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Hordeum Distichon Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Triticum Vulgare Seed Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Zea Mays Kernel Extract
Propanediol
Glycereth-26
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Althaea Rosea Flower Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract
Hydrangea Macrophylla Leaf Extract
Mentha Aquatica Extract
Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Cinnamomum Camphora Leaf Extract
Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract
Pinus Pinaster Bark/Bud Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water
Octyldodeceth-16
Tromethamine
C12-14 Pareth-12
Ceramide NP
Fructooligosaccharides
Beta-Glucan
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
4-Terpineol
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Rhizome/Root
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Glycolic Acid
Salicylic Acid
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract, Hydrangea Macrophylla Leaf Extract, Mentha Aquatica Extract, Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Cinnamomum Camphora Leaf Extract, Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract, Pinus Pinaster Bark/Bud Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Trehalose, Octyldodeceth-16, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, C12-14 Pareth-12, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Ceramide NP, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-Glucan, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, 4-Terpineol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Rhizome/Root, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.
As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.
In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.
Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.