Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Beauty of Joseon Glow Replenishing Rice Milk Versus Isntree Green Tea Fresh Toner

Beauty of Joseon Glow Replenishing Rice Milk Versus Isntree Green Tea Fresh Toner This hydrating toner is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Panthenol to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming toner is formulated around Camellia Sin

Beauty of Joseon Glow Replenishing Rice Milk Versus Isntree Green Tea Fresh Toner

This hydrating toner is formulated around Oryza Sativa Extract and Panthenol to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming toner is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Glycerin

Glycereth-26

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Oryza Sativa Extract

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panthenol

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Aluminum Chlorohydrate

Butylene Glycol

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Sodium Citrate

Kaolin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Citric Acid

Dextrin

Ceramide NP

Tocopherol

Rice Amino Acids

Water, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Aluminum Chlorohydrate, Butylene Glycol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sodium Citrate, Kaolin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Citric Acid, Dextrin, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Rice Amino Acids

Hydroxyacetophenone

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Allantoin

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Beta-Glucan

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract

Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract

Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA, Butylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Beta-Glucan, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

This tree is also known as the David Elm. It contains the ingredient bakuchiol.

Other great compounds found in this ingredient include galactose, glucose, and phenolics. The sugar content gives it great skin hydrating properties. Phenolics are potent antioxidants commonly found in fruits and veggies.

A 2020 study found the phenolics of this root to have an anti-inflammatory effect.

Fun fact: This ingredient is used in traditional Asian medicine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
  2. 02Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  3. 03PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
  4. 04Synthetic Wax
  5. 05PEG-10 Isostearate
  6. 06Sorbitan Sesquioleate
  7. 07Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
  8. 08Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
  9. 09Water
  10. 10Oryza Sativa Seed Water
  11. 11Glycerin
  12. 12Propanediol
  13. 131,2-Hexanediol
  14. 14Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
  15. 15Butylene Glycol
  16. 16Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
  17. 17Oryza Sativa Extract
  18. 18Avena Sativa Meal Extract
  19. 19Ethylhexylglycerin
  20. 20Caprylyl Glycol
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side