Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus ILLIYOON Ultra Repair Intensive Care Cream
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus ILLIYOON Ultra Repair Intensive Care Cream This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is fo
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus ILLIYOON Ultra Repair Intensive Care Cream
This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Propolis Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Water
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Betaine Salicylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Tromethamine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dextrin
Pentylene Glycol
Octanediol
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Dimethicone
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Panthenol
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Polyacrylate-13
Parfum
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyisobutene
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Stearic Acid
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Palmitic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Polysorbate 20
Sorbitan Isostearate
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract
Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Madecassoside
Myristic Acid
7-Dehydrocholesterol
Gluconolactone
Lauric Acid
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Polyacrylate-13, Parfum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Stearic Acid, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Palmitic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Madecassoside, Myristic Acid, 7-Dehydrocholesterol, Gluconolactone, Lauric Acid, Tocopherol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!