Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus It's Skin Power 10 Formula PO Effector Pore Lupin
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus It's Skin Power 10 Formula PO Effector Pore Lupin This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin. This pore-care serum is formul
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus It's Skin Power 10 Formula PO Effector Pore Lupin
This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.
This pore-care serum is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Salix Alba Bark Extract to refine the look of pores and balance excess oil.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Propolis Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Water
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Betaine Salicylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Tromethamine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dextrin
Pentylene Glycol
Octanediol
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
Methylpropanediol
C13-15 Alkane
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Propylene Glycol
Sodium Phytate
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Pyrus Communis Fruit
Melia Azadirachta Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Iris Florentina Root Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Citric Acid
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Salicylic Acid
Water, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, C13-15 Alkane, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Sodium Phytate, Dipropylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Pyrus Communis Fruit, Melia Azadirachta Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Citric Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Salicylic Acid
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract comes from the Tea Tree, Melaleuca alternifolia, Myrtaceae. This tea tree is native to Australia.
Tea Leaf extract contains antimicrobial and anti-acne properties.
This ingredient has perfuming properties and contains linalool and limonene. These fragrance and terpinen components can cause skin sensitivity.
Learn more about the benefits of Tea Tree Oil here.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier.
It rounds up dirt, oil, and grime, so they can be rinsed off easily as a cleanser.
On the emulsifier side, it keeps your formula smooth and well-mixed by playing peacekeeper for ingredients that don't naturally get along (like oil and water).
Because it has a C12 (lauric acid) fatty acid chain, this ingredient can potentially feed the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne. The Malassezia yeast prefers esters with C11-C24 fatty acids.
This ingredient is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.