Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus L'Oreal Revitalift Clinical 12% Pure Vitamin C Serum
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus L'Oreal Revitalift Clinical 12% Pure Vitamin C Serum This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin. This brightening serum is f
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus L'Oreal Revitalift Clinical 12% Pure Vitamin C Serum
This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Salicylic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Propolis Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Water
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Betaine Salicylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Tromethamine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dextrin
Pentylene Glycol
Octanediol
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
Ascorbic Acid
Dimethicone
Alcohol Denat.
Potassium Hydroxide
Polysilicone-11
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Adenosine
Silica
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Laureth-7
PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Poloxamer 338
Polyacrylamide
Sorbitan Laurate
Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Salicylic Acid
Parfum
Water, Ascorbic Acid, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Potassium Hydroxide, Polysilicone-11, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Silica, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Laureth-7, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Poloxamer 338, Polyacrylamide, Sorbitan Laurate, Xanthan Gum, Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Salicylic Acid, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.