Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin. This hydrating serum is formulated around
Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide Versus Sulwhasoo First Care Activating Serum
This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.
This hydrating serum is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Propolis Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Water
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Betaine Salicylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Tromethamine
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Dextrin
Pentylene Glycol
Octanediol
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
Alcohol
Betaine
PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract
Parfum
Honey
Juglans Regia Seed Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract
Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Limonene
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Disodium EDTA
Phenyl Trimethicone
Chondrus Crispus
Linalool
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Natto Gum
Citronellol
Citral
Propylene Glycol
Geraniol
Chlorphenesin
Hydrogenated Lecithin
BHT
Sodium Dehydroacetate
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Sorbic Acid
Water, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol, Glycerin, Betaine, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract, Parfum, Honey, Juglans Regia Seed Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Lilium Candidum Bulb Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Limonene, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Phenyl Trimethicone, Chondrus Crispus, Linalool, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Natto Gum, Citronellol, Citral, Propylene Glycol, Geraniol, Chlorphenesin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, BHT, Sodium Dehydroacetate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sorbic Acid, Tocopherol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Dextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.
Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.
In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.
This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.
Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.
Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.