Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Cleanser Versus MediCube Zero Pore SA Clear Capsule Cleansing Foam
Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Cleanser Versus MediCube Zero Pore SA Clear Capsule Cleansing Foam This mild gel cleanser is made to cleanse while calming and soothing your skin. This salicylic acid foaming cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid t
Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Cleanser Versus MediCube Zero Pore SA Clear Capsule Cleansing Foam
This mild gel cleanser is made to cleanse while calming and soothing your skin.
This salicylic acid foaming cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Prunus Mume Fruit Water
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
Glycerin
Sodium Chloride
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Oryza Sativa Extract
Prunus Mume Fruit Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Coconut Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Isethionate
Citric Acid
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Dextrin
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Propylene Glycol Laurate
Sodium Citrate
Disodium EDTA
Water, Prunus Mume Fruit Water, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Glycerin, Sodium Chloride, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Coconut Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Isethionate, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dextrin, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Propylene Glycol Laurate, Sodium Citrate, Disodium EDTA
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
Coco-Glucoside
Decyl Glucoside
Salicylic Acid 0.45%
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Silica
Parfum
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polyquaternium-67
Zea Mays Starch
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Mannitol
Sucrose
Gardenia Florida Flower Extract
Sodium Acetate
Ultramarines
Tocopheryl Acetate
Isopropyl Alcohol
Gluconolactone
Mandelic Acid
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Melaleuca Viminalis Extract
Flower Extract
Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract
Coffea Arabica Seed Extract
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Mentha Citrata Leaf Extract
Pinus Pinaster Leaf Extract
Water, Glycerin, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Lauryl Hydroxysultaine, Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Salicylic Acid 0.45%, Sodium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Silica, Parfum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Citric Acid, Polyquaternium-67, Dextrin, Zea Mays Starch, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Mannitol, Disodium EDTA, Sucrose, Gardenia Florida Flower Extract, Sodium Acetate, Ultramarines, Tocopheryl Acetate, Isopropyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Gluconolactone, Mandelic Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Melaleuca Viminalis Extract, Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Mentha Citrata Leaf Extract, Pinus Pinaster Leaf Extract
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Dextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.
Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.
In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.
This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.
Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.
Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!