Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA Versus Beauty of Joseon Bubble Toner: Green Plum + AHA

Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA Versus Beauty of Joseon Bubble Toner: Green Plum + AHA This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts. This smoothing toner is formu

Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA Versus Beauty of Joseon Bubble Toner: Green Plum + AHA

This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.

This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Prunus Mume Fruit Water

Dipropylene Glycol

Glycerin

Glycolic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Tromethamine

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Salicylic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Vigna Radiata Seed Extract

Disodium EDTA

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

C12-14 Pareth-12

Xanthan Gum

Octyldodeceth-16

Water, Prunus Mume Fruit Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Salicylic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, C12-14 Pareth-12, Xanthan Gum, Octyldodeceth-16

Pentylene Glycol

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Water

Honey Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Propanediol

Sodium PCA

Glucose

Fructooligosaccharides

Fructose

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Phytate

Tocopherol

Ethyl Hexanediol

Water, Prunus Mume Fruit Water, Glycolic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Glycerin, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Sodium PCA, Glucose, C12-14 Pareth-12, Butylene Glycol, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Tocopherol, Ethyl Hexanediol

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

C12-14 Pareth-12 is created from a mixture of synthetic C12-14 alcohols that have about 12 moles of ethylene oxide.

It is an emulsifying and cleansing ingredient. Emulsifier help prevent ingredients from separating, such as oils and waters.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.

It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.

Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.

AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.

Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.

Overall, glycolic acid helps with:

Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.

To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).

The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:

It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.

Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.

If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.

Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.

Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Prunus Mume Fruit Water is created by distilling parts of the Asian plum. This plum is AKA 'plum blossom'.

Plum Blossoms are rich in nutrients, including Vitamin A, Vitamin B, and Vitamin C.

Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.

It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.

This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.

Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Also known as Avobenzone, this ingredient is an oil-soluble used to absorb the full spectrum of UVA rays (peak 357 nm).
  4. 04It's one of the most effective UVA filters available but has a major caveat of photostability: avobenzone is susceptible to photodegradation.
  5. 05This means it can lose efficacy when exposed to sunlight without the help of a stabilizing agent.
  6. 06Studies show antioxidants (like vitamin E or vitamin C) and some UV filters (like octocrylene and Tinosorb S) can meaningfully improve its stability in a formulation.
  7. 07The maximum allowable concentration according to regulation is 3% in the US + Canada, and 5% in the EU, Australia, China, Korea, and ASEAN countries.
  8. 08It has a well-support safety profile: a comprehensive 2025 review found minimal toxicity with no evidence of carcinogenicity.
  9. 09Overall, avobenzone is a safe and regulated ingredient used in sunscreen for over 40 years.
  10. 10Ethylhexyl Salicylate (also called Octisalate or Octyl Salicylate) is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that's been used in sunscreen since the 1950's.
  11. 11It absorbs UVB light in the 280-320 nm range with a peak absorbance around 306 nm.
  12. 12You'll often see it paired with other UV filters to boost overall SPF because octisalate is a fairly week filter on its own.
  13. 13The reason you'll see it so often is because it can help solubilize and stabilize the trickier filters like oxybenzone and avobenzone.
  14. 14Unlike these filters, octisalate has pretty good photostability and doesn't create skin-damaging free radicals when exposed to sunlight.
  15. 15The fatty-alcohol part of the molecule also gives it a light, emollient feel so it doubles as a nice texture enhancer.
  16. 16Usage levels vary around the world:
  17. 17Safety-wise, this ingredient has a pretty reassuring track record. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP) found very low skin penetration in human skin tests and negative results for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.
  18. 18The real-world allergy risk is pretty low too; a 2012 European study of 1,031 people recorded only 2 reactions to it (a rate of 0.19%).
  19. 19You might have seen scary headlines about sunscreen getting into your blood.
  20. 20In 2019, the FDA found that several chemical filters can absorb through the skin and show up in the bloodstream at small but measurable levels.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side