Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA Versus Round Lab Pine Tree Calming Cica Toner
Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA Versus Round Lab Pine Tree Calming Cica Toner This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts. This calming toner is formulated aroun
Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner : AHA + BHA Versus Round Lab Pine Tree Calming Cica Toner
This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.
This calming toner is formulated around Houttuynia Cordata Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Prunus Mume Fruit Water
Dipropylene Glycol
Glycerin
Glycolic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Tromethamine
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Salicylic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
Disodium EDTA
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
C12-14 Pareth-12
Xanthan Gum
Octyldodeceth-16
Water, Prunus Mume Fruit Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Salicylic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, C12-14 Pareth-12, Xanthan Gum, Octyldodeceth-16
Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
Propanediol
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycoproteins
Morinda Citrifolia Leaf Extract
Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
Flower Extract
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Madecassoside
Madecassic Acid
Gluconolactone
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Water, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Glycerin, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycoproteins, Ethylhexylglycerin, Morinda Citrifolia Leaf Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract, Flower Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Gluconolactone, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!