Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Greentea Calming Serum Versus iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum
Beauty of Joseon Greentea Calming Serum Versus iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum This calming serum is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This calming serum is formulated around Melaleuca A
Beauty of Joseon Greentea Calming Serum Versus iUNIK Tea Tree Relief Serum
This calming serum is formulated around Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Panthenol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This calming serum is formulated around Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water and Centella Asiatica Leaf Water to calm redness and clear breakouts.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Ingredients Side-by-side
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Panthenol
Water
Methylpropanediol
Pentylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Betaine
Carbomer
Phenoxyethanol
Xanthan Gum
Zinc PCA
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Tromethamine
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Allantoin
Polyquaternium-51
Sodium Hyaluronate
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Tocopherol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Water, Methylpropanediol, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Zinc PCA, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Tromethamine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Tocopherol
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Niacinamide
Glycereth-26
Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract
Medicago Sativa Extract
Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract
Beta-Glucan
Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
Brassica Campestris Extract
Aspalathus Linearis Extract
Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex
Cellulose Gum
Adenosine
Caprylyl Glycol
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Triticum Vulgare Sprout Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Medicago Sativa Extract, Raphanus Sativus Seed Extract, Beta-Glucan, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Brassica Campestris Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Water, Betaine, Allantoin, Chlorophyllin-Copper Complex, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.