Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Jello Skin Massage Cream Versus Dr.G Moisture In Body 5.0 Body Cream
Beauty of Joseon Jello Skin Massage Cream Versus Dr.G Moisture In Body 5.0 Body Cream What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Glycerin Propanediol Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin) Niacinamide Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate Cete
Beauty of Joseon Jello Skin Massage Cream Versus Dr.G Moisture In Body 5.0 Body Cream
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Propanediol
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Niacinamide
Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Propylheptyl Caprylate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
1,2-Hexanediol
Vinyldimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
Methyl Trimethicone
Hydroxyacetophenone
Dipropylene Glycol
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Fructooligosaccharides
Adenosine
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Beta-Glucan
Panthenol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Maltodextrin
Tocopherol
Methylpropanediol
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Ceramide NP
Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract
Phaseolus Vulgaris Seed Extract
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, 1,2-Hexanediol, Vinyldimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Methyl Trimethicone, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dipropylene Glycol, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Fructooligosaccharides, Adenosine, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Beta-Glucan, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Methylpropanediol, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Ceramide NP, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Phaseolus Vulgaris Seed Extract
Triethylhexanoin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate
Cetearyl Olivate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate
Stearyl Alcohol
Trehalose
Glycine Soja Oil Unsaponifiables
Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Pollen Extract
Sorbitan Olivate
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Trisiloxane
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Disodium EDTA
Trideceth-10
Cholesterol
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Tromethamine
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Triethylhexanoin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate, Panthenol, Cetearyl Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Dipentaerythrityl Pentaisononanoate, Stearyl Alcohol, Trehalose, Glycine Soja Oil Unsaponifiables, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil Unsaponifiables, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Pollen Extract, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trisiloxane, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Trideceth-10, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cholesterol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopherol, Tromethamine
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!