Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum : Centella + Vita C Versus Melano CC Premium Brightening Essence
Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum : Centella + Vita C Versus Melano CC Premium Brightening Essence This brightening serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness. This brightening
Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum : Centella + Vita C Versus Melano CC Premium Brightening Essence
This brightening serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and calm redness.
This brightening essence is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Allantoin to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Centella Asiatica Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Glycerin
Propanediol
Betaine
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Methyl Trimethicone
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Panthenol
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetearyl Alcohol
Water
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Silica
Bisabolol
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Adenosine
Fructooligosaccharides
Beta-Glucan
Butylene Glycol
Sorbitan Isostearate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Maltodextrin
Arginine
Carbomer
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Ethylhexylglycerin
Centella Asiatica Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Propanediol, Betaine, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Methyl Trimethicone, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Panthenol, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Water, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Silica, Bisabolol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Adenosine, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-Glucan, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Maltodextrin, Arginine, Carbomer, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ascorbic Acid
Pyridoxine Hcl
Allantoin
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Tocopherol
Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract
Serine
Isopentyldiol
Propylene Glycol
PEG-8
Alcohol Denat.
Poe/Pop Decyl Tetradecyl Ether
Sodium Metabisulfite
EDTA
Parfum
Ascorbic Acid, Pyridoxine Hcl, Allantoin, O-Cymen-5-Ol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Tocopherol, Alpinia Katsumadai Seed Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Serine, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Isopentyldiol, Propylene Glycol, PEG-8, Alcohol Denat., Poe/Pop Decyl Tetradecyl Ether, Sodium Metabisulfite, EDTA, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.