Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++ Versus AXIS - Y Biome Double Defense Sunscreen PF50+ PA++++

Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++ Versus AXIS - Y Biome Double Defense Sunscreen PF50+ PA++++

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range, though its SPF isn't confirmed on file yet.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Synthetic Wax

Dibutyl Adipate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Caprylyl Methicone

Caprylyl Trimethicone

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Silica

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Boron Nitride

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Microcrystalline Wax

Polysilicone-15

Vinyldimethicone

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Amber Powder

Water

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Hyaluronic Acid

Panthenol

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycerin

Methylpropanediol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Morinda Citrifolia Extract

Vigna Radiata Seed Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Synthetic Wax, Dibutyl Adipate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Boron Nitride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Microcrystalline Wax, Polysilicone-15, Vinyldimethicone, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Amber Powder, Water, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Homosalate

Niacinamide

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Adenosine

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment

Caprylyl Glycol

Tocopherol

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Pentylene Glycol

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Behenyl Alcohol

Tromethamine

Decyl Glucoside

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Sodium Polyacrylate

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil

Propylene Glycol

Copaifera Officinalis Resin

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Xanthan Gum

Polyether-1

Water, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homosalate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Dibutyl Adipate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Polysilicone-15, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Propanediol, Adenosine, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Silica, Behenyl Alcohol, Tromethamine, Decyl Glucoside, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethylhexylglycerin, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Sodium Polyacrylate, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Amyris Balsamifera Bark Oil, Propylene Glycol, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Xanthan Gum, Polyether-1

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

This ingredient is better known as bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S and is one of the best broad-spectrum UV filters in modern sunscreen.

It works by absorbing UV light across a whole range (280-400 nm) with peaks around 310 nm (UVB) and 340-345 nm (UVA). This means it covers UVB plus the deeper UVA wavelengths that drive photoaging and pigmentation.

Another pro?

It's exceptionally photostable, barely degrades in sunlight, and acts as a "bodyguard" for less stable filters.

That's why you'll see it paired with avobenzone or octinoxate; this team up ensures they keep working through sun exposure.

Safety reviews have been reassuring across the board. This ingredient shows low absorption through the skin, rarely irritates, and lab studies found it doesn't act like a hormone in the body (a concern that's been raised about some older sunscreen filters).

On maximum concentrations:

In 2026, the US F.D.A finally added it as an OTC sunscreen ingredient at concentrations up to 6% for adults / children 6 months and older

Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.

According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.

Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.

Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.

Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.

This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).

Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.

Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.

You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.

This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.

In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.

Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Polysilicone-15 (trade name: Parsol SLX) is a silicone-based UVB filter that soaks up UVB light (~280-320nm) with a peak around 310nm.

It's a fairly modest sunscreen filter so formulators mostly use it as an SPF booster and "light stabilizer". This just means it helps keep other light-sensitive ingredients from breaking down in sunlight.

A 2007 study measured the in-vitro SPF of 18 filters and found Polysilicone-15 contributed an SPF of about 3.64 at its maximum legal concentration (though worth noting its maker points out that in-vitro tests tend to underestimate its real performance because of its large polymeric structure).

Usage levels vary; it's approved up to 10% as a UV filter in the EU, China, Japan, Australia, ASEAN, and Mercosur countries. In the US, it's only permitted up to 1% as a light stabilizer because the FDA hasn't reviewed it as a sunscreen active.

Typical use levels range from 1-3%.

The EU's scientific committee concluded that this ingredient is safe for use as a UV absorber up to 10%, and tests came back negative for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.

There is one case of allergic lip inflammation from a lip balm with this ingredient, though this is rare.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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