Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++ Versus innisfree Intensive Leisure Sun Stick SPF50+ PA++++

Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++ Versus innisfree Intensive Leisure Sun Stick SPF50+ PA++++

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Synthetic Wax

Dibutyl Adipate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Caprylyl Methicone

Caprylyl Trimethicone

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Silica

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Boron Nitride

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Microcrystalline Wax

Polysilicone-15

Vinyldimethicone

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Amber Powder

Water

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Hyaluronic Acid

Panthenol

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Bambusa Vulgaris Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycerin

Methylpropanediol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Morinda Citrifolia Extract

Vigna Radiata Seed Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Synthetic Wax, Dibutyl Adipate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Boron Nitride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Microcrystalline Wax, Polysilicone-15, Vinyldimethicone, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Amber Powder, Water, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyethylene

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Tocopheryl Acetate

Ozokerite

Dehydroacetic Acid

Tocopherol

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Parfum

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Bisabolol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Citric Acid

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Polyurethane-11

Sodium Benzoate

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Linalool

Limonene

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Potassium Sorbate

Distearyldimonium Chloride

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Octyldodecanol

Benzyl Salicylate

Dimethicone

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Homosalate

Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Polyethylene, Isopropyl Palmitate, Silica, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ozokerite, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Dehydroacetic Acid, Tocopherol, Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Parfum, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Bisabolol, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Propanediol, Citric Acid, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Polyurethane-11, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Linalool, Limonene, Vinyldimethicone, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Potassium Sorbate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Distearyldimonium Chloride, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Polysilicone-15, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Octyldodecanol, Benzyl Salicylate, Dibutyl Adipate, Dimethicone, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Homosalate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Portulaca Oleracea Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

This ingredient is better known as bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S and is one of the best broad-spectrum UV filters in modern sunscreen.

It works by absorbing UV light across a whole range (280-400 nm) with peaks around 310 nm (UVB) and 340-345 nm (UVA). This means it covers UVB plus the deeper UVA wavelengths that drive photoaging and pigmentation.

Another pro?

It's exceptionally photostable, barely degrades in sunlight, and acts as a "bodyguard" for less stable filters.

That's why you'll see it paired with avobenzone or octinoxate; this team up ensures they keep working through sun exposure.

Safety reviews have been reassuring across the board. This ingredient shows low absorption through the skin, rarely irritates, and lab studies found it doesn't act like a hormone in the body (a concern that's been raised about some older sunscreen filters).

On maximum concentrations:

In 2026, the US F.D.A finally added it as an OTC sunscreen ingredient at concentrations up to 6% for adults / children 6 months and older

Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.

According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.

Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Curcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.

While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.

This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.

Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.

One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.

At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.

Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.

Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.

You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.

This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.

In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.

Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

In cosmetics, it plays many roles:

One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.

For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.

This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.

Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.

It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.

Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.

In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.

Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.

Isopropyl Palmitate is a lightweight emollient made by combining isopropyl alcohol and palmitic acid.

It is an emollient that leaves skin feeling smooth and silky without leaving a greasy feel.

Typical usage concentrations range from 1-5%.

Human testing shows it's non-irritating and non-sensitizing, and the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has cleared it at very high levels (79% in leave-on products).

The one thing worth knowing about its comedogenic score of 3-4 is to keep it in perspective: these ratings come from old rabbit-ear tests using 100% of pure ingredient and doesn't reflect how it behaves at low levels in a finished product.

Because it is an ester of palmitic acid (C16), it falls into the range that the Malassezia yeast can feed on and is considered not fungal acne safe.

This ingredient is a water-in-oil emulsifier and is sometimes known by its trade name, Isolan GPS. It helps create stable emulsions by bridging oil and water phases without adding a greasy feel.

Common usage levels sit between 2-5% for this ingredient.

Polysilicone-15 (trade name: Parsol SLX) is a silicone-based UVB filter that soaks up UVB light (~280-320nm) with a peak around 310nm.

It's a fairly modest sunscreen filter so formulators mostly use it as an SPF booster and "light stabilizer". This just means it helps keep other light-sensitive ingredients from breaking down in sunlight.

A 2007 study measured the in-vitro SPF of 18 filters and found Polysilicone-15 contributed an SPF of about 3.64 at its maximum legal concentration (though worth noting its maker points out that in-vitro tests tend to underestimate its real performance because of its large polymeric structure).

Usage levels vary; it's approved up to 10% as a UV filter in the EU, China, Japan, Australia, ASEAN, and Mercosur countries. In the US, it's only permitted up to 1% as a light stabilizer because the FDA hasn't reviewed it as a sunscreen active.

Typical use levels range from 1-3%.

The EU's scientific committee concluded that this ingredient is safe for use as a UV absorber up to 10%, and tests came back negative for irritation, phototoxicity, and photoallergy.

There is one case of allergic lip inflammation from a lip balm with this ingredient, though this is rare.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

This ingredient is used in makeup and skincare to thicken formulas, reduce shine, and give skin a silky-smooth feel.

It’s a white silicone powder that sits in fine lines and pores to blur their appearance though its effectiveness depends on the particle size.

You'll typically find this ingredient in amounts between 0.1-20%.

Vinyldimethicone is a type of silicone.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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