Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++ Versus Tocobo Cotton Soft Sun Stick SPF50+ PA++++
Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++ Versus Tocobo Cotton Soft Sun Stick SPF50+ PA++++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98
Beauty of Joseon Matte Sun Stick: Mugwort + Camelia SPF 50 PA++++ Versus Tocobo Cotton Soft Sun Stick SPF50+ PA++++
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Synthetic Wax
Dibutyl Adipate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Caprylyl Methicone
Caprylyl Trimethicone
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Silica
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Boron Nitride
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Microcrystalline Wax
Polysilicone-15
Vinyldimethicone
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil
Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Amber Powder
Water
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
1,2-Hexanediol
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Hyaluronic Acid
Panthenol
Butylene Glycol
Propanediol
Bambusa Vulgaris Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Glycerin
Methylpropanediol
Centella Asiatica Extract
Morinda Citrifolia Extract
Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Synthetic Wax, Dibutyl Adipate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Caprylyl Methicone, Caprylyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Boron Nitride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Microcrystalline Wax, Polysilicone-15, Vinyldimethicone, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Melia Azadirachta Bark Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Amber Powder, Water, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Hyaluronic Acid, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Bambusa Vulgaris Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Extract, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Octocrylene
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ozokerite
Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract
Gossypium Herbaceum Extract
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
Rheum Palmatum Root/Stalk Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil
Caprylyl Glycol
Bisabolol
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Titanium Dioxide
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Octyldodecanol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables
Tocopherol
Parfum
Synthetic Wax, Dibutyl Adipate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Octocrylene, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Silica, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ozokerite, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Rheum Palmatum Root/Stalk Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Bisabolol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Titanium Dioxide, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Tocopherol, Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract is the extract from the flowers of the aloe vera plant. In cosmetics, it functions as a skin conditioning agent.
Here's the honest part: most of the famous "aloe" research is on the leaf and this flower extract is much less studied. It shouldn't be assumed to do everything the gel is known for.
However, there is a small body of flower-specific research that is interesting to take a look at.
The flowers of Aloe vera contain volatile compounds and ascorbic acid. And when researchers looked closer, they found the flower is rich in antioxidants called phenolics that lined up with the extract's strong antioxidant activity.
This extract also showed some ability to fight off a common bacteria (Pseudomonas aeruginosa) in lab tests.
In lab and mouse studies, those phenolic compounds behaved like solid antioxidants though human skin trials on the flower extract are still needed.
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty assuring. The CIR Expert Panel deems this ingredient safe in current practices of use and only rare cases of acute eczema, contact urticaria, and dermatitis have been reported.
This ingredient is better known as bemotrizinol or Tinosorb S and is one of the best broad-spectrum UV filters in modern sunscreen.
It works by absorbing UV light across a whole range (280-400 nm) with peaks around 310 nm (UVB) and 340-345 nm (UVA). This means it covers UVB plus the deeper UVA wavelengths that drive photoaging and pigmentation.
Another pro?
It's exceptionally photostable, barely degrades in sunlight, and acts as a "bodyguard" for less stable filters.
That's why you'll see it paired with avobenzone or octinoxate; this team up ensures they keep working through sun exposure.
Safety reviews have been reassuring across the board. This ingredient shows low absorption through the skin, rarely irritates, and lab studies found it doesn't act like a hormone in the body (a concern that's been raised about some older sunscreen filters).
On maximum concentrations:
In 2026, the US F.D.A finally added it as an OTC sunscreen ingredient at concentrations up to 6% for adults / children 6 months and older
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract is also known as Ivy Gourd Fruit Extract. It has skin conditioning properties.
The fruit is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenoids, and sterols that show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect in vitro. This is because the fruit contains a thick mucilage that forms a protective and soothing layer on the skin's surface.
The extract itself has demonstrated antioxidant, soothing, and potential anti-allergy properties.
Most of this research is done in vitro and dedicated clinical studies on topical application are still limited.
Corallina Officinalis Extract is from the red seaweed, Corallina Officinalis. This seaweed is found all over the world but is most common in the rocky shores of Great Britain and Ireland.
Corallina Officinalis Extract contains antioxidant and emollient properties.
Extracted polysaccharides, galactose and xylose, in red algae showed antioxidant activity. Antioxidants help with anti-aging by neutralizing free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and DNA. Galactose is also a PHA.
Corallina Officinalis is structurally similar to coral due to its high calcium content.
Curcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.
While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.
This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.
Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.
One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.
At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.
Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.
Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.
You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.
This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.
In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.
Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.
This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.
Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.
A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.
Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).
Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.
This ingredient comes as a powder made up of small, porous, microbeads. It is used to add a silky feel to products and also helps absorb oil.
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract comes from the Holy Basil plant. Holy Basil is native to India.
Holy Basil is rich in antioxidants due to its high romarinic acid, ferulic acid, and rutin content. This gives it skin brightening and soothing properties.
While Holy Basil has many claims to help fight acne, more research is needed.
One thing to note is the presence of tannins; tannins are naturally found in nature. However, this compound may be skin-sensitizing.
This ingredient is a water-in-oil emulsifier and is sometimes known by its trade name, Isolan GPS. It helps create stable emulsions by bridging oil and water phases without adding a greasy feel.
Common usage levels sit between 2-5% for this ingredient.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
This ingredient comes from eggplant (or aubergine). It has skin conditioning properties due to its abundance of antioxidants like Chlorogenic Acid, Caffeic Acid, and Nasunin.
Nasunin is the pigment concentrated in the purple peel and has demonstrated the abilityu to neutralize free radicals and bind excess iron in lab studies.
Lab studies have shown that eggplant extracts can lower oxidative stress and protect skin cell membranes from damage. A 2025 study found that specific compounds in eggplant (particularly a phenolamide called N-Trans-Feruloylputrescine) may support skin health by neutralizing 2-nonenal, a byproduct linked to aging skin.
Overall, this is a gentle, well-tolerated ingredient that adds a little extra antioxidant support to your routine.
Those with nighshade vegetable allergies (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes) should patch test as eggplant is part of the same family.
Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.
Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.
It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.
This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.
Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.
This ingredient is used in makeup and skincare to thicken formulas, reduce shine, and give skin a silky-smooth feel.
It’s a white silicone powder that sits in fine lines and pores to blur their appearance though its effectiveness depends on the particle size.
You'll typically find this ingredient in amounts between 0.1-20%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!