Beauty of Joseon Pine Grove : Body Cream Versus APLB Glutathione Niacinamide Body Lotion

Beauty of Joseon Pine Grove : Body Cream Versus APLB Glutathione Niacinamide Body Lotion

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Octyldodecanol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Cetearyl Olivate

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Sorbitan Olivate

1,2-Hexanediol

Methyl Trimethicone

Vinyldimethicone

C12-16 Alcohols

Parfum

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Palmitic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Caprylyl Glycol

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Copernicia Cerifera Wax

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Phytate

Cellulose Gum

Juglans Nigra Leaf Extract

Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract

Sophora Japonica Leaf Extract

Stearyl Alcohol

Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract

Tocopherol

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water

Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract

Methylpropanediol

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Bambusa Vulgaris Water

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract

Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract

Prunus Persica Flower Extract

Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Water, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Olivate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Sorbitan Olivate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Trimethicone, Vinyldimethicone, C12-16 Alcohols, Parfum, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose Gum, Juglans Nigra Leaf Extract, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Sophora Japonica Leaf Extract, Stearyl Alcohol, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Water, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Extract, Methylpropanediol, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Extract, Pinus Sylvestris Bud Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Pinus Pinaster Bark Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract 12.3%

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Glutathione

Niacinamide

Madecassic Acid

Asiaticoside

Asiatic Acid

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Beta-Glucan

Nelumbo Nucifera Extract

Artemisia Annua Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Saccharomyces Ferment

Squalane

Sodium Hyaluronate

Cholesterol

Potassium Hydroxide

Disodium EDTA

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Sorbitan Stearate

Dimethicone

PEG-100 Stearate

Stearic Acid

Chlorphenesin

Carbomer

Water, Centella Asiatica Extract 12.3%, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glutathione, Niacinamide, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Beta-Glucan, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Sorbitan Stearate, Dimethicone, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chlorphenesin, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract comes from the seabuckthorn berry. This berry is native to Asia and has been used in traditional medicine for centuries.

The seabuckthorn fruit contains carotenoids, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, Vitamin C, linoleic acid, and vitamin E.

The nutritious content of seabuckthorn fruit helps hydrate and nourish the skin. A study from 2018 found seabuckthorn may help with alleviating UV damage due to its anti-inflammatory property. However, it should not replace your sunscreen.

Due to its antioxidant properties, seabuckthorn fruit may help reduce the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight unstable free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin cells.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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