Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ Versus Missha All Around Safe Block Cotton Sun SPF50 PA+++

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ Versus Missha All Around Safe Block Cotton Sun SPF50 PA+++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun Aqua-Fresh Rice + B5 SPF 50+ Versus Missha All Around Safe Block Cotton Sun SPF50 PA+++

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Oryza Sativa Seed Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

1,2-Hexanediol

Drometrizole Trisiloxane

Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate

Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Tromethamine

Panthenol

Pentylene Glycol

Glyceryl Stearate

Silica

Caprylyl Methicone

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Sodium Hyaluronate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Propanediol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Methylpropanediol

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Glycerin

Polyether-1

Polyquaternium-51

Beta-Glucan

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Inositol

Tocopherol

Ferulic Acid

Citric Acid

Ceramide NP

Phytosphingosine

Rice Amino Acids

Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Water, Oryza Sativa Seed Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tromethamine, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Caprylyl Methicone, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Propanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Methylpropanediol, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Polyether-1, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Inositol, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Phytosphingosine, Rice Amino Acids, Rice Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Zinc Oxide

Cyclohexasiloxane

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Isododecane

Dioctyl Adipate

Polyethylene Naphthalate

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Magnesium Sulfate

Titanium Dioxide

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Glyceryl Caprylate

Caprylyl Glycol

Dipropylene Glycol

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Butylene Glycol

Allantoin

Parfum

Water, Zinc Oxide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Propanediol, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Isododecane, Caprylyl Methicone, Dioctyl Adipate, Polyethylene Naphthalate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Magnesium Sulfate, Titanium Dioxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Glyceryl Caprylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Panthenol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Allantoin, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.

According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.

Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.

Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.

Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.

This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).

Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.

When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.

If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
  10. 10The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
  11. 11Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down o…
  12. 12The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
  13. 13A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at…
  14. 14A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
  15. 15On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
  16. 16This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
  17. 17Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
  18. 18Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  19. 19Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  20. 20Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum

Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum ingredients explained: Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water,…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side