Skin science article
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Aqualogica Radiance+ Dewy Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA+++
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Aqualogica Radiance+ Dewy Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA+++ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Aqualogica Radiance+ Dewy Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA+++
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dibutyl Adipate
Propanediol
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Ethylhexyl Triazone
Niacinamide
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylyl Methicone
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Butylene Glycol
Oryza Sativa Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Monascus/Rice Ferment
Behenyl Alcohol
Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Decyl Glucoside
Tromethamine
Carbomer
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Adenosine
Xanthan Gum
T-Butyl Alcohol
Tocopherol
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Aspergillus Ferment
Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Pentylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Dimethicone
Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide
Biosaccharide Gum-4
Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide Ng
Ceramide NP
Ceramide As
Ceramide AP
Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Arginine
Trehalose
Allantoin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide
Propylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Lecithin
Glyceryl Stearate
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Silica
Glyceryl Glucoside
Coco-Glucoside
Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
Citric Acid
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Methicone, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide Ng, Ceramide NP, Ceramide As, Ceramide AP, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Arginine, Trehalose, Allantoin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Silica, Glyceryl Glucoside, Coco-Glucoside, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Decyl Glucoside, Citric Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.
Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.
This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).
Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.
Decyl Glucoside is a plant-derived surfactant and emulsion stabilizer. It is created by reacting glucose with the fatty acids from plants.
Like all surfactants, it works by lowering the surface tension between water and oil. This makes it so that dirt, sebum, and makeup can be lifted off your skin and rinsed away. It also produces a dense and creamy foam.
Because it has a neutral charge, it is compatible with a wide range of ingredients and stays stable across a broad pH range/water hardiness conditions.
Patch testing has shown it to have the lowest irritation potential among common cleansing surfactants (like SLS).
Typical use levels range from 5-20% in rinse-off cleansers.
One thing worth knowing: The American Contact Dermatitis Society named the parent family, alkyl glucosides, "Allergen of the Year" in 2017. The prevalence of allergy is pretty low but be sure to patch test if you've reacted to "gentle" or sulfate-free cleansers before.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because the fatty alcohol portion of this ingredient is not within the C11-24 chain length that Malassezia can metabolize.
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).
DHHB is well-liked for:
DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.
This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.
Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This ingredient is also known as Tinosorb M or Bisoctrizole and is a bit of an overachiever in the sunscreen world.
It's a hybrid broad-spectrum filter that covers UVA and UVB (~280-400nm) with peak absorption around 305nm for UVB or 360nm for UVA (and a tiny bit in blue-light territory as well).
One of its best party tricks is photostability; it doesn't break down with repeated sun exposure and doesn't generate free radicals in the process either. You'll also see it paired with wobbly filters like avobenzone because it helps stabilize them.
The safety profile is assuring as well. Because it's a large molecule, it doesn't easily absorb into skin and rarely causes irritation.
It's approved in the EU, Asia, and Australia up to 10% and most formulas land somewhere in the 2-10% range.
You won't find it as a sunscreen active in the US, but it can make an appearance as a formula-protecting UV-absorber.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.