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Skin science article

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus B.LAB Matcha Hydrating Real Sun Stick SPF 50+

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus B.LAB Matcha Hydrating Real Sun Stick SPF 50+ This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients S

Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotics SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus B.LAB Matcha Hydrating Real Sun Stick SPF 50+

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Propanediol

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Niacinamide

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Caprylyl Methicone

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone

Glycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Oryza Sativa Extract

Oryza Sativa Germ Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract

Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Monascus/Rice Ferment

Behenyl Alcohol

Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Decyl Glucoside

Tromethamine

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Adenosine

Xanthan Gum

T-Butyl Alcohol

Tocopherol

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment

Aspergillus Ferment

Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Propanediol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Niacinamide, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Methicone, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Bacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Behenyl Alcohol, Poly C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Decyl Glucoside, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, T-Butyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Synthetic Wax

Dipropylene Glycol

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Ozokerite

Bisabolol

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Sodium Chloride

Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Caprylyl Glycol

Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Extract

Water, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Synthetic Wax, Dibutyl Adipate, Dipropylene Glycol, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Ozokerite, Bisabolol, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Sodium Chloride, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Mesembryanthemum Crystallinum Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Dibutyl Adipate is a lightweight, oil-soluble ester that acts as an emollient and solvent. It helps products spread more easily and leaves a soft, silky, dry-touch finish without being greasy.

You'll likely see this ingredient in sunscreens because it does a nice job dissolving UV filters and keeping them evenly distributed.

This ingredient has been found to be safe as used in cosmetics, wasn't a skin or eye irritant in clinical patch testing, and wasn't phototoxic.

In a clinical comedogenicity test, this ingredient tested negative so it isn't likely to clog pores.

Typical use levels are about 5-8% for sunscreens + nail products, but can range from 0.005%-8% depending on the product.

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Ethylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.

This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.

Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.

It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.

Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.

In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.

Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Aspergillus Ferment is created when Aspergillus fungi is fermented under controlled conditions. This is the same fungi used to make sake, miso, and soy sauce.
  4. 04The fungi breaks down to produce a mix of enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and bioactive compounds during fermentation.
  5. 05One such compound is kojic acid; kojic acid is widely considered a gentler alternative to hydroquinone. You should know: the amount of kojic acid in Aspergillus Ferment will vary depending on species used and how the fermentation was done.
  6. 06There's an in-vitro study from 2019 found that ceramide-like compounds from Aspergillus luchuensis helped skin cells turn on the genes related to barrier repair and moisture retention. Just keep in mind this was tested on cells in a lab and not on a…
  7. 07If you're someone who deals with fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis), you might want to instinctively want to skip this ingredient.
  8. 08That's understandable since it is derived from a fungus. It's worth knowing that Aspergillus and Malassezia are completely different organisms and there's no research suggesting that Aspergillus Ferment feeds or worsens malassezia overgrowth on the skin.
  9. 09However, if you're actively managing fungal acne, being cautious with any new ingredient is reasonable.
  10. 10Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  11. 11Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  12. 12Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  13. 13Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  14. 14Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  15. 15It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
  16. 16Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
  17. 17A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
  18. 18Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  19. 19Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  20. 20Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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